Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help - Air Filter Disaster

Silvarh

By Silvarh,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Silvarh Apprentice

Silvarh

Posted
Posted

Hi there guys, so as the title and description state, iv'e tried to replace my pod filter with a carbon fiber closed pod filter, a Monza one. Along with this i also replaced the intake tube with an aluminium 5 piece adjustable one. I put mini breathers on the two hoses that were connected to main air pipe as well. So everything was connected properly as the guy from Autobarn told me to, i kept the air flow sensor and connected that to the adjustable pipe as well, how it was connected previously, but when i tried to start my car it simply kicked over a few times then died out.

I have tried to trouble shoot the problem but iv'e come up with nothing. Iv'e taken off the carbon filter and put the old one on yet to no avail. Iv'e taken off the mini breathers one by one and yet nothing, so now iv'e restored everything to how it was and I am currently waiting for the super glue to dry... i had to cut off a little pipe outlet thingy to connect a mini breather only to realize that i could take off the hose and connect it to the metal connector inside =.=" stupid, yes i know.

So guys, please if anybody has gone through this at all or if they have any input to help me i'd be greatly appreciative... so please help!!

Car type: 1993 Skyline R33 GTS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352216-need-help-air-filter-disaster/
Share on other sites
Char Experienced

Char

Posted
Posted

some cars i know ie commodores will sometimes not want to start if u put on a pod filter, or they take longer to crank over.

did u take off your AFM/MAF? if u did your car wont start.

put everything back the way it was previous and reset the ecu, see how that goes

Silvarh Apprentice

Silvarh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The car originally had a Drift cylinder pod filter on it with a makeshift heat shield... the heat shield was scratching the engine bay so thats my reason for wanting to change it. I had the AFM connected when i put everything together and now when I restored everything. How do i reset the ECU though?

Nanogrip Collaborator

Nanogrip

Posted
Posted

"...mini breathers on the two hoses that were connected to main air pipe..."

Aren't the mini breathers supposed to be on the valve cover and the two hoses on the main pipe blocked?  Can you post a photo?  It should be an easy fix if it ran before the change of air filter. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Silvarh Apprentice

Silvarh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey theres guys, sorry for not updating this thread... i sort of forgot haha! Well I did manage to fix this problem, I put everything back together how it was and that worked great so instead of replacing all the pipe work i returned all the parts i bought and bought a K&N cold air intake instead. It is a VERY tight squeeze but hey... it suits the engine bay all nice and black and seems to be working quite well.

All in all I think some advice I can offer to people is to invest in a more expensive product as they work better!! xD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...