Welded Wg Flap

[SargeRX8]

I got rid of that GT3071 T2 turbo and got my self a GT3082R from the same guy. Issue now is with this one, he had welded the flap shut because he was running an externally gated system. Ive got a external wastegate and all that stuff + a top mount manifold but thats my problem. I don't want to be running top mount...

Is it a bad idea to try and cut the weld? Would the flap ever seal the way it was? What are my options? Is it possible to buy a new flap and replace that one? I'm finding it hard to find a low mount manifold with an external wg port... Could the stock one be modified? Ive got two of them...

I just want advice guys. I don't want to go top mount as I don't want too much attention under the bonnet. I want it to sit low and would much prefer an internally gated setup.

[JKR-32]

Standard one can be modified, Just get someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you. Mine setup has an external gate mounted to a modified standard manifold, Works fine. Although a lot of people are against it, it works for me

[Beer Baron]

if you really want to just run an internal gate turbo then your best bet is probably to sell the manifold, gate and turbo you have to someone who does want that cop bait under bonnet look and then you can just buy another internal gate turbo that hasn't been modified and away you go.

[SargeRX8]

The effort of selling and waiting is too long. It took me so damn long just to source the parts. I wasn't too fussed about it as I did intend to go high mount but have been doubting it recently.

JKR-32, where did you make the weld for the external WG flange?

[NSNPWR]

For best result, it needs to go over the 'collector' and on as much of an angle in line with exhaust gas flow as possible...did same thing on my old RB30, Turbosmart 48mm gate and 35/40 on stock manifold, worked a treat, held boost rock solid.

[GTScotT]

Far out, sometimes this forum amazes me.

Serious question can now have its serious response, contact GCG and a new internal gate rear housing and actuator. Sell your top mount manifold and gate to recoup costs.

Get the .82 AR MINIMUM as this turbo is going to be hard to optimize in the IW housing. Best results would be a quality manifold and quality gate on a NEW .82 AR non IW housing.

Go with option 1 and switch to option two if you fail, resale on the parts used to try do stealth IW will be decent. good luck.

[SargeRX8]

Im going GCG tomorrow then over to Precision to discuss options. Guy I got it from made 430rwhp on a V8 with the .63 and external gate. I think this housing should suffice on a Skyline as it has significantly less exhaust output than a 355.

[GTScotT]

He probably took it off the V8 because it was choking the life out of it. 430whp from a 355ci turbo is pathetic at best.

Stop talking mythology and start talking science. End of the day, it has been proven that .63IW is a NO GO for an RB25 with a 3076. You have a 3082, see the problem? You have added 100HP of compressor with the same turbine wheel (same realistic flow capability) and are using a housing that is proven NOT to work with the lesser mentioned option.

We have also seen members FRY the CHRA on 3582's with .82 housings. This is because of the temperatures seen on the exhaust side. The 3582 has a much larger and free'er flowing exhaust wheel, which would pose a far lesser issue when posed with a housing constraint.

.82 or quit while your ahead.

[BLITZ-26]

Dont use the .63 rear as said it won't give u the results your after

[SargeRX8]

Found it from the US for about $490. Genuine Garrett. It's what you're suggesting. Should I buy it or stay local? How much can they be found for?

[NSNPWR]

Far out, sometimes this forum amazes me.

Serious question can now have its serious response

What the fark are you on about? Step down off the soap box.

[SargeRX8]

Also the rear housing seems a little stuck from abit of rust. Can I tap it with a hammer?

Or spray it with wd40?

Edited February 1, 2011 by SargeRX8

[GTScotT]

What the fark are you on about? Step down off the soap box.

I dont see mods arguing? Keep to the topic.

Also the rear housing seems a little stuck from abit of rust. Can I tap it with a hammer?

Or spray it with wd40?

Lots of WD40 and be careful with the hammer. It can be a discouraging process yet be careful and try to move it off evenly.

[SargeRX8]

Should I loosen the tension brackets to give it room to rotate so that it doesn't come off balance and hit the wheel?

[GTScotT]

You will obviously need to undo the bolts for it to come off, yet leaving them half in so you can tap it out progressively is a good idea for the exact reason you have mentioned.

When I did mine I was unable to undo a couple of the bolts unless the housing was slidding off with them. If it is rusted it also will not rotate.

GL

[SargeRX8]

I just took it off. Came off smoothly but to my surprise the f**king turbine wheel has chips in all fins. This is f**king bullshit.

[JKR-32]

Sorry for the timely response, did you get my MMS yesterday mate?

Anyway, for if you didn't here's the pics i sent plus a few more.

That sucks about the exhaust wheel as well dude, you're not having much luck with that turbo...

[SargeRX8]

Its getting tempting to give up on it all. First turbo I buy was wrong flange now this one with a chipped wheel....

[l0WRB]

Ive been in and driven my mates r33 rb25 with gt3082 .63 on 19psi and its nothing short of fkn wicked.. pulls hard cooks tyres .. 290rwkw. Enough said.

[GTScotT]

Its getting tempting to give up on it all. First turbo I buy was wrong flange now this one with a chipped wheel....

Dont give up, there is still a lot to do but the rewards will be worth it.

I honestly think you should scrap the turbo you have now in total. By the time you fix it and get the correct housing you will have already paid for a new one.

Buy yourself a 3071 or 3076 with .82 IW brand new.