Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello.

I've got a bad coolant leak from what seems to be a metal pipe that comes off the block, under the intake (on the drivers side).

I need to find out what the part is so I can order one, then whats the best way to tackle it. Im guessing it would be easier to get it on a hoist, but dont have access, im guessing ill have to take the whole intake off to get to it.

It feels like the metal pipe is a 90degree elbow, then goes onto a standard coolant hose. Sorry cant be more specific, havent had a good look at it myself yet...

Any ideas?

its the thermostat housing pipe. Order a new thermostat. Get genuine. Buy a tube of good quality rtv silicon gasket maker.

Take hose off. Unbolt pipe. Change thermostat. (your doing this because you might as well while u have the pipe off). Clean old gasket from both block and pipe. Apply gasket glue to both surfaces. Allow 15 mins cure. Put pipe back in position. Bolt back up. Put hose back on.

Would be a good idea to drain coolant before u start.

once back together you can flush it brfore u refil with colant if you like.

So probably but coolant also.

You can buy a gasket for the thermostat housing but ive had plenty of luck using liquid gaskets (rtv silicon gasket glue).

buy a genuine thermostat from nissan parts. Cheap repco ones can give poor results. They dont seat properly and they dont open and close as reliably as genuine.

Thermostat maybe 50 bucks.

gasket maker maybe 15 bucks.

coolant... All depends on what u buy. A concerntrate from repco will do the trick.

Thanks mate,

I just had a bit of a feel around and look and it does seem to be the thermostat housing where its leaking from, I thought it was another pipe coming off the block below the thermostat housing. Thats a relief.

If the thermostat housing itself needs to be replaced, any ideas where and how much i'd be looking at?

Could be. Hard to tell from where i'm looking. Does the heater hose/pipe come off the block, behind the thermostat housing, towards the firewall?

Repco or supercheap auto a good source for the heater hose/pipe or thermostat housing?

Thermostat housing is just a cast alloy bit of pipe. Nothing can really go wrong with it. Would certainly be very rare or even unheard of if one was to split or crack from normal use.

It will just be where it seats against the block that the gasket is leaking or even where the hose slides over the housing that the hose is a bit perished and leaking.

Does the hose on this pipe u speak of go straight to the radiator? and its farely larger diameter hose? if so then yes its the thermostat housing.

Edited by tm_r33

Yes there is a heater hose that comes from the thermostat housing and the block (well on a RB26 it is RB25 should be the same). Here's some pic's i tried to clear it up for you to make it easier to understand. Hope this helps you.

post-56933-0-79184900-1296648799_thumb.jpg

post-56933-0-45224000-1296648822_thumb.jpg

Yeah, I know the thermostat housing, not sure if its coming from the base of that where it joins to the block, or the heater hose that comes from the block behind it.

If i were a betting man, i'd probably say its coming from the heater hose/pipe. I think ill have to take off the intake on the weekend and check it out. Seems like a bit of a jerk of a job to get the intake off tho :/

Thanks for all the info guys, been heaps of help!

No worries mate give us a yell if you need more info, but i would be leaning towards a heater hose, i've had one fail one me before so i repalce them all with silicon hose kit, bit of a bastard to do but hey these cars are getting a bit long in the tooth nowthumbsup.gif

yeah that depends i guess on how old it is and how much corrosion its been subjected to, you need to pressure test the cooling system without the engine running and see if that makes it show up more clearly.

Awesome. Thanks again for the info buddy, ill get onto it on the weekend. The amount and speed it was leaking when under pressure, I think it will be pretty obvious when I get the intake off and have a good look at it. From memory, even under no pressure when I fill the radiator, it leaks from the spot.

that ill be the heater hose and the easyest way is to whip off the starter motor and it's above there, and it's bloody tight to do too, also you'll get coverd in coolant too because it's below the block

  • 2 weeks later...

Change all the hoses now. There is about 11 down there, it only takes 1 to fail and it could be your head gasket. I posted a diagram of all the hoses under there on these forums before.

The diagram is on my external drive at home...sorry.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...