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Whats The Difference Between Skylines?

GTAAAAAAH32

By GTAAAAAAH32,
in South Australia

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GTAAAAAAH32 Enthusiast

GTAAAAAAH32

Posted
Posted

Hey SA SAUers,

I am still fairly new to this forum, and are getting extremely close to buying one of my dream cars in an R32 GTR. Which brings me to my question.

I am generally looking 1992 to 1994, however i am accepting earlier with a rebuilt motor.

What are the physical differences between 1989 to 1994 GTR's? I have seen some 1993 models with side indicators and some without. Is that all?

Please advise, i will be making my purchase hopefully within 10 days....

Cheers :cheers:

Matty

trick Proficient

trick

Posted
Posted

If the rebuilt motor 32 has had the crank shaft changed to a 33 GTR one or had it sleeved id go for that one. One of the major floors with the 32 GTR motor is the crank design into the oil pump. It has about 5mm of contact and is the first thing that goes. You completely lose oil pressure and you need to pull the motor to replace the pump. They fixed the design with the 33 GTR crank. Hope that helps with ya decision

Weezy Grand Master

Weezy

Posted
Posted

Mid 93' onwards have a different clutch system to the earlier GT-R's.

89' GT-R don't have badging on them apart from the 'R' from memory.

The side indicators are simply compliance - so if it has them its a newer import as previous years it wasn't a requirment back then... ummmmm... as per above the crank collars are different. The center dash console bit that goes around the CD player etc in 89's and 90's from memory is a black colour compared to the later models with the rough look finish plastic similar to rest of the dash...

Think thats about it?

GTAAAAAAH32 Enthusiast

GTAAAAAAH32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

these are the following mods to one i am looking at with a fresh rebuilt motor with 240awkw

Nismo Twin Plate Clutch, Nismo Engine Mounts, Nismo Baffled Sump, New Drive Shafts, N1 Oil Pump, R33 Snout Crank, Recon Head, 600cc Injectors

What the hell is a snout crank? Is that what you were talking about trick? What do you think about the mods?

trick Proficient

trick

Posted
Posted

Matty, sounds like that GTR has the 33 GTR crank in it. The snout they mention is the end that fits into the oil pump. So yeah that motor sounds good. Now ya just need to decide which to buy. If it were me id lean towards the rebuilt motor one. Its all done for ya, just depends on the rest of the car I guess

GTAAAAAAH32 Enthusiast

GTAAAAAAH32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The rest looks awesome mate, (dont wanna give to much away unless some bastard gets in before me!!) i think its a goer.

The only question i have now is the N1 oil pump. Our mate above thinks they are bollocks, but im not one for thrashing my car at all. (in saying that though, i do love the sound of a RB26 at 8000rpm!!:rofl: )

Will have to discuss this further.

Thanks for all your help, i literally know nothing about cars. I can put more oil and water in and change the tyres but thats as far as my mechanic mind goes.

Cheers mate

CRoNic... Grand Master

CRoNic...

Posted
Posted (edited)

N1 oil pump at 8000rpm = lol bearings.

Seriously dude, just search on these forums for the N1 oil pump arguements and you can make up your own mind :)

Edit: here. Read this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/283867-n1-oil-pump-epic-fail/page__hl__n1+oil+pump

Edited by CRoNic...
GTAAAAAAH32 Enthusiast

GTAAAAAAH32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No worries CRoNic,

Lots of pros and cons suggested on that forum. Some say they last for ages and some say they die within 1000km...

I will have to make a decision once the purchase is done.

How much are we talking for an upgraded oil pump? Is it how much you push your car or they just die for no apparent reason?? The forum again states this but i dont quite understand why...

Endless pools of money GTRs aren't they? I dont care.... GTR..(like HSV)... I Just Want One!!!

trick Proficient

trick

Posted
Posted

At the end of the day matty if you buy the rebuilt GTR and IF the N1 pump goes (which i dont think will happen) you still have allot of mods done to this car. on the other hand WHEN the std oil pump goes on the other GTR's you still have to pull the engine appart to fix the problem. N1 oil pumps generally will be fine in a 32, more so compared against the std so really its a better call to buy the rebuilt GTR, in my opinion anyway.

hope the info helps matty

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

At the end of the day matty if you buy the rebuilt GTR and IF the N1 pump goes (which i dont think will happen) you still have allot of mods done to this car. on the other hand WHEN the std oil pump goes on the other GTR's you still have to pull the engine appart to fix the problem. N1 oil pumps generally will be fine in a 32, more so compared against the std so really its a better call to buy the rebuilt GTR, in my opinion anyway.

hope the info helps matty

This is incorrect. N1 pumps have bigger gears than the standard pumps, however due to this there is less clearance at the lowest point of the gear cutout. Standard pumps won't pump as much, nor at the same pressure as the N1 or aftermarket pumps, however they won't die as easily as an N1 pump.

Check this pic out

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=215653

Notice the thickness on the outer section where the tooth slides into? On the first two its rather thick, 4-5mm it looks like. Check out the thickness of the outer edge of the N1 pump - its thin as, 2mm or something.

When the revs go over 8000, that is what breaks. You won't have this problem on a Jun, HKS, Tomei, Nitto or even Nismo pumps as they weren't manufactured with such a small amount of metal holding those teeth in..

If I was you, buy the built engine with the n1 pump, and when finances permit it, then take the engine out and replace that pump with a Nitto (or brand of your choice).

In either case, just keep the revs under 7500 to be safe and if you want to take it to a track, then change the pump

-D

Inline 6 Grand Master

Inline 6

Posted
Posted (edited)

cant find pics but the key difference that all true buyers should be looking at is the real early models have a ugly circle a/c button while the newer 1s have a true 80s style square shape :D

actually having pretty hard time finding the circle a/c button on the net musta been pretty rare

Edited by Inline 6
  • 2 weeks later...

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