Jump to content
SAU Community

  

2 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

hello

my newly imported vehicle is in compliance presently. the complier wants to know if i want to pay a few hundred $s to have the vehicle registered first by a dealer, thus avoiding the possibility of viiu

i would like to know how frequent/whats the probability of a viiu...

appreciate your input & advice

regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353366-probability-of-viiu/
Share on other sites

i have no idea what a VIIU is. brb.

okay got it.

seems to me like your RAWS is kinda trying to pull a fast one... wait a sec. back back.

before i go any further - i'm not from your state, so i don't know how things "go down"

but anyway - this kinda sounds like a quick grab for a few extra dollars worth of fleecing on you.. not that i KNOW that for sure..

but your RAWS is saying that "either you pay us or you risk the gubberment spanking you"

keep in mind your RAWS is NOT the gubberment. they are NOT aligned with them. nor are they employed by them.

then again - they may make a phone call and bla bla bla.

basically - in my humble opinion. it sounds dodgy. some people do these sorts of things to play chess.

It serves a purpose, and if they're prepared to do it, then let them. If a car has mods on it, it's easier for them to register the car themselves and give it straight to you rather than pull everything off for your RWC then put it all back on again afterwards. The few hundred dollars is just for the rego, I'd imagine, given that dealers don't pay any stamp duty.

are you in NSW? if so the so called 'random vehicle identity inspections' seem to occur to EVERY privately registered import these days. it used to be random and I registered plenty of imports and did not get stung but over the last couple of years it seems much more common to get sent for the inspection. the downside is that A there are only a handful of inspection locations and they may be no where near where you live/work (expect to have to drive 30kms or more each way), and they keep weird hours. the closest one to me keeps hours of something like 6am to 12 midday 5 days a week, and even worse they are usually booked for weeks or even more than a month in advance and in the meantime you have no rego and have to wait. and then at the end of it all you still have to go back to the RTA again, line up AGAIN and go through the whole rego thing again. the stupid thing is they do the 'random lottery' thing right at the end of the rego process, so you'll do all the paperwork, answer all teh stupid questions, they'll print your rego label and get out your number plates and then at the last second tell you your stung. you'd think they'd do it first to save time.

and yes it's not un-usual for workshops to charge $100-$300 to register a car for you (on top of the rego costs) as it takes them a few hours 'labour' of going to get the blue slip, going to the RTA, waiting in line etc to get it all done.

it's up to you if you think whatever they are charging is worth avoiding the risk of the inspection. on the plus side you won't be double paying anything because they won't pay the stamp duty, you will pay it when you transfer it to your name.

yeah no worries. it's probably a bit different for everyone, but if you're busy and value your time, and you don't want to have the thing sitting around unregistered for another few weeks and you don't want any hassles then paying them the few hundred to do it for you is well worth it. The only extra cost is whatever you agree to pay them plus about $20 when you transfer the rego. everything else you still only pay once just like if you registered it yourself. I guess if you had a lot of free time and were counting every cent then you'd take the gamble but recently it seems there is 100% strike rate on newly complied imports so you'd have to be prepared for all the monkey work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...