Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well I am a little bored, I pulled apart the spray gun I was going to use and gave it a good clean, ended up getting a good fan from it, but the spray is interrupted every 8-9 seconds though, maybe running too much pressure, today will see me service the hoist jack, can't wait :mellow:.

But there aint much to do until the body parts arrive i have been told that is tuesday.

Hi all,

can't find much on here about it, but I had a look at Enkei's fitment guide and they are saying a 19x10 +35 is best fit for an R34 GTR, I was looking to stuff a 20x10+35 in there, with a 275/30/R20.

Can anyone see a problem with this?

The rolling diameter of my stocks with 265/35R18's RE01's will be just over 3%, so no real matter philosophically there for me, I think the std ratios are a little short anyway. will have copy z-tune guards and lowered adjustable suspension and bushes to reduce cambers and help keep more tyre on the road.

these are the ones I am looking at;

post-78013-0-73072000-1298777007_thumb.jpg

post-78013-0-06984100-1298777057_thumb.jpg

post-78013-0-09396800-1298777077_thumb.jpg

20x10+35 Should fit fine, hell even go a bit lower on the offset I'd say to get it a bit flusher, I'm sure people will agree with me.

First style you posted looks the best, have you looked at CR KAIs or something similar? not sure if they come in 20s but look nice XD9 and XT7 will look nice as well. Then there is the Volk path but $$$$ for GTR sizes TE37s, GT-Cs etc would look tops.

Oh and just FYI - I run 18x10 +15 on my r33 GTR (would have gone bigger but that was the largest they make) and r33 GTR guards are a tiny bit smaller then R34 GTR ones I think. Heres a quick pic of mine:

179412_491002053778_548178778_6221160_575190_n.jpg

-Leigh

certainly had the car for a while, must have been one of the first 34 R's in the country back in '02 :)

nice to see it's getting a freshen up :)

It was complied in Victoria too. But generally good to know it has been in Oz for all of that time, makes an estimation of the actual km's traveled a lot easier.

I saw an article of a White R34 GTR v's a GTS Monaro, that was way back when they first came out, always had a sneaky suspicion it was this one :thumbsup:

Would be interesting to know for sure.

Well here it is!

The first unexpected problem >_<

The sump where it joins up with the front diff is cracked.

Darren thinks it was a factory repair that created a weak spot, as the original Nissan silastic was still on the sump.

post-78013-0-04143300-1298941767_thumb.jpg

I did remember the Beer Baron had a 34 sump with a diff fitted, but from chatting with him on Friday, he has disappeared since.

So if anyone out there has a R34 sump with the original diff fitted, I am interested to buy!!

My diff is in good shape, but the cost of fitting and a sump is more than we can get the whole unit second hand. Currently waiting on three people to get back to me from around Australia and the world, so please anyone else, get in touch?

Would like to put this to bed within a week.

20x10+35 Should fit fine, hell even go a bit lower on the offset I'd say to get it a bit flusher, I'm sure people will agree with me.

First style you posted looks the best, have you looked at CR KAIs or something similar? not sure if they come in 20s but look nice XD9 and XT7 will look nice as well. Then there is the Volk path but $$ for GTR sizes TE37s, GT-Cs etc would look tops.

Oh and just FYI - I run 18x10 +15 on my r33 GTR (would have gone bigger but that was the largest they make) and r33 GTR guards are a tiny bit smaller then R34 GTR ones I think. Heres a quick pic of mine:

179412_491002053778_548178778_6221160_575190_n.jpg

-Leigh

Thanks Leigh,

Pretty hard to find the Volks in 20's.

Looks like the Enkei's might have to do!

I take it you will be sourcing a set of Xenons for it aswell, instead of the halogen headlights in it now??

Nice build!

Hi Granthem,

It does have Xennon lights currently, but they have been doctored in there, so I found out the other day, the fittings are dubious to say the least!

I guess it wouldn't hurt top put it out there to see if anyone has any Xennon loom clips to solder in from a wrecked vehicle.

UNfortunately the headlights are getting some plastic welding done to them currently. Can't really do too much with the body until they come back.

Definitely be looking for 18x10.5 or more if you want flush. The new TE37SL come in 18x11's. They would do perfectly I think..

Looking to drop the hammer on some of the Enkei GTC01's 20x11+18, they will weigh a tonne, but will put some R compounds on the stocks for track days. They will be dressed in Falken F452 275/30/R20's. the tyres in US are soooo cheap!!

Good price.

Whats wrong with the splitter too? The narrower splitter I believe is designed to work with the Rtune bonnet, which pulls cool air from under the car, past the back of the radiator and out the bonnet vents with the hot radiator exhaust air.

Good price.

Whats wrong with the splitter too? The narrower splitter I believe is designed to work with the Rtune bonnet, which pulls cool air from under the car, past the back of the radiator and out the bonnet vents with the hot radiator exhaust air.

That is interesting, I thought the point of the R-Tune bonnet was to pull more air through the FMIC and radiator, could be wrong though. The guards are internally vented to pull hot air from the engine, so that will help the bay stay cooler.

The splitter was too narrow for the bumper, this isn't related to the length, there is a user on here with a top secret splitter available, I have PM'd him, but failing that I will fix the one I have I guess.

post-78013-0-10699400-1299213303_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...