Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr R34 Rebuilt Parts

vspecR

By vspecR,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

vspecR Contributor

vspecR

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I'm looking at buyer an R34 GTR at the moment.

The owner has blowned the engine before by putting more than 25psi boost on the standard engine and turbo, resulting in snapping the crankshaft (does that sound right?) . What usually happens when you snap the crankshaft? what other parts does it damage?

Anyways, the engine has been rebuilt using : 'bottom end are: standard nissan crank shaft, scat h beam conrods and je forged pistons with rings'

now i am planning to mod it to about 300-350kw. Will the standard crank shaft be strong enough? and i tried googling scat H-beams and i cant find infomation about it...so has anyone had any experience or heard anything about these rods?

the engine was also rebuilt was done in a small town by a local mechanic. so i am skeptical about the build. The mechanic has basically told me he has rebuilt the engine and the car is just running factory power, becuase the owner doesnt know much about cars.

the price is really good, so im tempted to buy it

let me know what you guys think

thanks guys :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354666-gtr-r34-rebuilt-parts/
Share on other sites
Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted

im quite sure that there must have been other propblems, ive seen people run 700+ horses on the standard crank. (nothing modded or changed either)

just make sure that the block is in good condition and same goes for the head. which is a bit of a hard thing to check. but i doubt they would rebuild it with a crap block/head anyways

vspecR Contributor

vspecR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh im hoping the block and head were fine after the engine went bang. Im not sure how to check that but i will bring it to a mechanic and get the whole car checked out before i buy it.

Has anyone heard of Scat H-beam conrods? i want to know if they are any good. are they cheap?

cheers

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted

http://www.scatenterprises.com/

check them out, and i really doubt that any aftermarket forged items would be crap... just saying :)

main thing to check i guess would be smoke from any oil problems, valve seals, scrapes inside of block etc.

highly doubt they wouldnt get it re honed or bored/fixed while they rebuilt it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • feartherb26
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By feartherb26 · Posted

      If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...