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Matt

it's a replacement bar that simply bolts in in a 33. I fabricate them here in the garage with tap, die and MIG Welder. Fitting is easy, but you need a wheel alignment straight away as I wouldn't recommend driving far with it unaligned. The only downside is the light on the dash comes on and you can really feel the rear move with the standard subframe bushes so lockrings or pineapples are recommended. Detailed instructions are supplied with a purchase.

Righteyo - perfect - my car's due for an alignment anyways.

I've already got the whiteline sub-frame lock kit (ie. the pineapples), so that's sweet.

How long's it take you to make 'em up?

Cheers,

matt

Matt

it's a replacement bar that simply bolts in in a 33. I fabricate them here in the garage with tap, die and MIG Welder. Fitting is easy, but you need a wheel alignment straight away as I wouldn't recommend driving far with it unaligned. The only downside is the light on the dash comes on and you can really feel the rear move with the standard subframe bushes so lockrings or pineapples are recommended. Detailed instructions are supplied with a purchase.

A couple of days if I'm doing just one, so i could get it to you Saturday if you are coming on the cruise. Might be a good time to do a few actually. Probably time to put together a kit for 32's with the hydraulics as well.

Geoff - Not coming on the cruise as car is really in need of that alignment (it's kicking out under throttle, so the rear-end geometry must be all over the place).

You wouldn't happen to work in the city would you?

Cheers,

matt

A couple of days if I'm doing just one, so i could get it to you Saturday if you are coming on the cruise. Might be a good time to do a few actually. Probably time to put together a kit for 32's with the hydraulics as well.

I normally do, but I am off work at the moment due to an injury so I'm stuck at home and bored most of the time. My work as an Engineer requires a lot of sitting, which is painful, so I spend most of the day in the garage making stuff and working on the car.

I have quals that would allow me to work in one of our workshops but our (military) culture does not accept officers doing menial tasks and working in such close environments as it is bad for discipline and obedience (don't you love the sound of that stuff?), so I'm sent home to be unproductive. Fortunately I have a rigorous physical treatment programme starting soon so I will be more involved in that, score so far 1 neurosurgeon, 1 spinal care specialist, 3 physiotherapists, 1 chiropractor and 1 senior physical trainer. The least they can do for initially mismanageing my injury for 7 months.

Anyway, back on topic, i can drop it off early next week if you want as the rest of the time is mine, and driving is not too difficult if I don't slam over big potholes.

Hi Geoff,

The wheel & boss arrived today no dramas. Wow it's in very good nick !!

About that Hicas lock. I'm going to PM another user on these forums who's very cluey with electronics to investigate the feasability of a 'bender' to fool the Hicas ECU, similar to the Tomei setup. No more Hicas warning light.

Guys you can deal with Geoff with absolute confidence - and St Bernards are much quicker than Australia Post :wassup:

Matt

no need for a deposit, I'm happy to fabricate it and drop it off, say on monday, so PM me with location.

Wells

thanks for the kind words. I just try to do for people what I would want happen to me, but I have been slow with a workshop CD so I'm hardly perfect.

The bender sounds good. Saves removing the dash binnacle to disable the warning lamp. There may need to be a couple of designs due to the 32' and possibly 34's being different.

BigDatto,

Very interested to watch your mates progress with that 'bender'... Keep us informed with how you go! :D

Geoff,

Check your PM.

Cheers,

matt

Hi Geoff,

The wheel & boss arrived today no dramas. Wow it's in very good nick !!

About that Hicas lock. I'm going to PM another user on these forums who's very cluey with electronics to investigate the feasability of a 'bender' to fool the Hicas ECU, similar to the Tomei setup. No more Hicas warning light.

Guys you can deal with Geoff with absolute confidence - and St Bernards are much quicker than Australia Post :wassup:

  • 1 month later...

Have you got pictures of the pistons and also what boost they were previously run at...

I am unsure whether I will need them or will go forgies...have to pull the engine anyway so we will find the problem.

By the way people this is due to a slight knock at 1,500rpm+ in number 5 piston also causing plug foul if anyone else has had a similar problem any help would be appreciated...(note engine has done 60,000kms...on stock boost always...so it could be a bottem end bearing...maybe)

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