Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Matt

it's a replacement bar that simply bolts in in a 33. I fabricate them here in the garage with tap, die and MIG Welder. Fitting is easy, but you need a wheel alignment straight away as I wouldn't recommend driving far with it unaligned. The only downside is the light on the dash comes on and you can really feel the rear move with the standard subframe bushes so lockrings or pineapples are recommended. Detailed instructions are supplied with a purchase.

Righteyo - perfect - my car's due for an alignment anyways.

I've already got the whiteline sub-frame lock kit (ie. the pineapples), so that's sweet.

How long's it take you to make 'em up?

Cheers,

matt

Matt

it's a replacement bar that simply bolts in in a 33. I fabricate them here in the garage with tap, die and MIG Welder. Fitting is easy, but you need a wheel alignment straight away as I wouldn't recommend driving far with it unaligned. The only downside is the light on the dash comes on and you can really feel the rear move with the standard subframe bushes so lockrings or pineapples are recommended. Detailed instructions are supplied with a purchase.

A couple of days if I'm doing just one, so i could get it to you Saturday if you are coming on the cruise. Might be a good time to do a few actually. Probably time to put together a kit for 32's with the hydraulics as well.

Geoff - Not coming on the cruise as car is really in need of that alignment (it's kicking out under throttle, so the rear-end geometry must be all over the place).

You wouldn't happen to work in the city would you?

Cheers,

matt

A couple of days if I'm doing just one, so i could get it to you Saturday if you are coming on the cruise. Might be a good time to do a few actually. Probably time to put together a kit for 32's with the hydraulics as well.

I normally do, but I am off work at the moment due to an injury so I'm stuck at home and bored most of the time. My work as an Engineer requires a lot of sitting, which is painful, so I spend most of the day in the garage making stuff and working on the car.

I have quals that would allow me to work in one of our workshops but our (military) culture does not accept officers doing menial tasks and working in such close environments as it is bad for discipline and obedience (don't you love the sound of that stuff?), so I'm sent home to be unproductive. Fortunately I have a rigorous physical treatment programme starting soon so I will be more involved in that, score so far 1 neurosurgeon, 1 spinal care specialist, 3 physiotherapists, 1 chiropractor and 1 senior physical trainer. The least they can do for initially mismanageing my injury for 7 months.

Anyway, back on topic, i can drop it off early next week if you want as the rest of the time is mine, and driving is not too difficult if I don't slam over big potholes.

Hi Geoff,

The wheel & boss arrived today no dramas. Wow it's in very good nick !!

About that Hicas lock. I'm going to PM another user on these forums who's very cluey with electronics to investigate the feasability of a 'bender' to fool the Hicas ECU, similar to the Tomei setup. No more Hicas warning light.

Guys you can deal with Geoff with absolute confidence - and St Bernards are much quicker than Australia Post :wassup:

Matt

no need for a deposit, I'm happy to fabricate it and drop it off, say on monday, so PM me with location.

Wells

thanks for the kind words. I just try to do for people what I would want happen to me, but I have been slow with a workshop CD so I'm hardly perfect.

The bender sounds good. Saves removing the dash binnacle to disable the warning lamp. There may need to be a couple of designs due to the 32' and possibly 34's being different.

BigDatto,

Very interested to watch your mates progress with that 'bender'... Keep us informed with how you go! :D

Geoff,

Check your PM.

Cheers,

matt

Hi Geoff,

The wheel & boss arrived today no dramas. Wow it's in very good nick !!

About that Hicas lock. I'm going to PM another user on these forums who's very cluey with electronics to investigate the feasability of a 'bender' to fool the Hicas ECU, similar to the Tomei setup. No more Hicas warning light.

Guys you can deal with Geoff with absolute confidence - and St Bernards are much quicker than Australia Post :wassup:

  • 1 month later...

Have you got pictures of the pistons and also what boost they were previously run at...

I am unsure whether I will need them or will go forgies...have to pull the engine anyway so we will find the problem.

By the way people this is due to a slight knock at 1,500rpm+ in number 5 piston also causing plug foul if anyone else has had a similar problem any help would be appreciated...(note engine has done 60,000kms...on stock boost always...so it could be a bottem end bearing...maybe)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually everyone on the roads was really well behaved. The only person that did any minor tailgating was a local hoon in a Turbo Focus. Unfortunately we weren't going the same way so there was no grand initial D touge battle. Lots of people pulled over and let me through. The amount of "Hey man nice car, omg skyline, nice 34 man woo" was suprising. Like really suprising. Like almost annoying. My partner was obviously surprised, she'd never seen anyone in the real world point out the car/like the car/want to chat about the car before, so to have like 3 people per day mention it was notable, I could finally say SEE? SOMEONE THINKS THEY'RE COOL. Everyone was also pretty suprised about the weather. Every day was dry and about ~13-14C. Mount Wellington had a sign that said they close the gates at 9pm and I was heading up there at about ~7:30. It was VERY apparent that conditions were getting significantly worse by the minute on the way up and down. The road on the mountain was terrible though, it's no driving road. I have various suspension related questions now. Luckily it was only about 20 minutes from where we were staying to the top of the mountain as said Google maps. We only had the 2 nights in Hobart. We went to the Farm Gate Market though which was really good - And went down to the Hastings Thermal springs/caves down there during the day. I'd definitely be up for going back again, so luckily there's a few more sights yet to see. Didn't get to do the west coast/queenstown/cradle mountain so this was supposed to be a 'scouting' trip anyway of sorts if I were to one day do/take part in/organize a more car-focused trip. As for the boat, it wasn't bad. Well it was bad, but not in the way you're thinking. We did the night trip which leaves at 6:45 (though you have to be there ~2 hours earlier) and arrives the next morning at about 6am. There is nothing to do on the ship. If you plan accordingly and bring a book/tablet/show to watch/charger you can just chill out, take some Travacalm and just sleep through it. The food there is an extremely basic buffet that costs $32 a plate, or $14 for a $3 pizza. The way back we had a travel kettle and a few different types of cup noodles and made our own tea/coffee in the room. This was a far superior way to do it. At the very least book one of the rooms with beds. I guess as we were in the off season we didn't have room mates. You get an option for rooms with 4 beds (2x bunks) or a room with just the two bottom beds. There's also some option for a deluxe queen bed but it's much pricer. We've been on sleeper trains in Asia before so we figured this is similar (and it was)
    • You just gotta be really, really, really clear and decisive with what you want your end product to be. 99% of people who want this conversion aren't "I want to run a 295 front tyre!" so they don't really need the widebody. They just want the OEM body to look a little less dumpy, so bonnet, bar, skirts job done with some camber, stretch, slam. It's when you want that, but then decide to pivot later you get big problems. See also if you're willing to get an all in one fibreglass bar, and you're willing to accept fibreglass problems like cracking the entire item on a driveway, instead of just a piece attached to the bottom, etc etc etc. Decide this all before buyin'.
    • After @Kinkstaah debacle, I'd never want to try and get it right 😛
    • The hood lines up with the fenders. The front bar doesn't perfectly line up with the fenders where the wheel arch is. You have to 'squeeze' the front bar 'in' as it wants to naturally flare out and be longer on the sides. There's a few threads where people notice this when they only swap a GTR style bumper and front bar. Unless you have genuine OEM items - you may be better served getting conversion kits. There are GTT bumpers to fit GTR hoods. There are GTR hoods (non genuine) to fit the GTT bracketry. MAY  
×
×
  • Create New...