Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have installed a S2 RB25DET into my HR31 coupe over the last few months i regoed it over a month ago and all is good, pulls nice and seems to drive like it should. I gave it to a local tuner to put her on the dyno and run it up to see if there is any problems turns out after 9 power runs everytime at 6000rpm and making 140rwkw it drops off, he said they usally drop off a little bit but then pick up and goes to the red line as mine doesn't.

Fuel is rich and it isn't leaning out.

No vac leaks or boost leaks.

The motor isn't breathing oil.

Timing is right.

AFM seems to be in good working order.

CAS seems to be in good working order.

He seemed to think the timing belt had jumped teeth and told me to check it, i thought if the belt had jumped over it would be running bad all the time and not just at 6000rpm. So i checked the timing belt and all the marks line up.

I went over my wiring and from what i have wired it up from it's correct.

The CAS isn't off centre as the timing is back to 15 degrees at roughly 850 rpm on idle.

New splitfire coilpacks less than 1500 km old.

New NGK copper plugs pre gapped to .8 less than 1500km old.

Before the motor went in it had new oil and filter, fuel filter, coolant and flush, water pump, timing belt and a boshi 040 installed.

Im taking the car back on Friday to have a some more work done with re run with a mates S2 computer, as i have a mate that works at the tuners shop and he reckons it might be ecu related.

The motor is pretty much stock apart from:

FMIC

Greddy profic type II boost controller (witch is off currently)

Boshi 040

3 inch exhaust with a centure muffler and rear muffler

Splitfires

Im thinking of getting a tune done with a power fc but im pretty sure my problem will still be there even with the new computer and tune.

As you can see im all out of ideas.

Any ideas or help will be great!

Cheers

Adam

Edited by Ad's

dude.... 140rwkw and beyond is the rich and retard maps in the factory ECU.

TUrn your boost up and I bet it hits this hole a whole lot earlier.

Get a tunable ECU, its a known fact that the factory ECU is useless for anything above stock power.

You are wasting your money trying to "fix" the factory ECU.

Powerfc...

Boost controller got turned off as it was only making it run worse! And its still off currently! I will be looking at a power fc soon when i don't have a lack of money.

The VCT is working as it clicks and my mate pointed it out when it was in there!

Thanks

Apparently its my air flow meter in the cooler piping! It's going back in a week or so when i have moved it back and seeing it it changes anything!

islade : I borrowed a mates manual computer and it didn't make a difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...