Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

after cracking one of my front rotors on Wednesday at the sprints I pondered the idea of ditching my poverty spec single piston nissan brakes and upgrading to some R33 GTST ones which I can pick up a set discs pads callipers etc for under $400

I figured it was going to cost me close to $400 to get a pair of new rotors to replace the one that cracked

Spec wise my poverty spec front discs are 296 x24

R33 GTST front discs are 296 x 30

So the discs are pretty much the same size just thicker which should handel more heat + 4 pots are always better than 1!

I have no idea if this is going to be a simple plug and play job or if its going to be a total pain in the ass

I also dont know about the rears as from what I remember when it came to my 180sx there was something strange about how the handbrake worked which made it a pain in the ass to hook them up. Dont know if the V35 is going to be any different

The other thing that I am concerned about is will QLD transport allow me to put on older brakes on a newer car even though they are better than the ones that my car came with?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355128-r33-gtst-brakes-on-v35-non-brembo/
Share on other sites

A bunch of the M35 guys have already done just this. R32 GTR discs & calipers also work.

They will fit fine, BUT the V35 calipers use an M14 mounting bolt whereas the R33 calipers use an M12 mounting bolt.

You can either re-drill & tap the hole in the mounting tab on the caliper to M14 (It's a steel insert, pressed into the alloy casting), or machine a 14mm O.D. 12mm I.D. sleeve to fit in the holes in the hub.

Edited by Daleo

Yep Exactly what Dale said. The only trouble that we run into is that wheels need to fit the extra clearance in the Brake caliper. Std wheels generally won't, but by the look of it you don't have stocks.

Also gives you access to a great range of Brake Pads- you could go and get some decent race pads for your track days :thumbsup:

Oh, and R32 GTR are the same - just the disc is 296mmx32mm

Edited by PN-Mad

Dont think ill have any issed with the track rims which are pictured in my avatar being +20 9.5 x 18, have tons of room. The 19"s that I use on the street have a bit of room might have to measure up and see

also what have you guys done as far as mod plates/rta?

Dont think ill have any issed with the track rims which are pictured in my avatar being +20 9.5 x 18, have tons of room. The 19"s that I use on the street have a bit of room might have to measure up and see

also what have you guys done as far as mod plates/rta?

Best thing you can do for to make sure, and the easiest, is to get someone with a R33 and just test fit both your wheels on it for clearance. I'm sure that you wont have an issue with a +20, but always best to double check hey?:thumbsup:

Wagons don't attract much attention...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...