Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im after the following parts:

- Boot trim that covers the battery

- Radiator fan

- Front strut brace

- 1x Screw that hold the coolant bottle in place

- Plastic piece that surrounds the lock in the boot

- 1x Driver door card

- Front series 2 bonnet in white

- Gear stick leather boot( the leather on the stick)

- stock r33 gtst rim with good rubber

Would prefer someone in Sydney but interstate will be fine with the little bits.

Shoot me a pm with your price and i shall get back to you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355203-wanted-few-r33-bits/
Share on other sites

- Boot trim that covers the battery

- Radiator fan

- Front strut brace

- 1x Screw that hold the coolant bottle in place

- Plastic piece that surrounds the lock in the boot

- 1x Driver door card

- Front series 2 bonnet in white

- Gear stick leather boot( the leather on the stick)

- stock r33 gtst rim with good rubber

i goy boot trim and bolt for coolent bottle and boot lock... u need the lock with nissan bit that flaps up ??? shoot me a text im in geelong vic. 0425717785. i will send that for you if ya like

- Boot trim that covers the battery

- Radiator fan

- Front strut brace

- 1x Screw that hold the coolant bottle in place

- Plastic piece that surrounds the lock in the boot

- 1x Driver door card

- Front series 2 bonnet in white

- Gear stick leather boot( the leather on the stick)

- stock r33 gtst rim with good rubber

the plastic piece is the piece inside the boot thats around the metal bracket/latch where the boot locks into when its closed , im after the plastic bit around that bracket/latch

- Boot trim that covers the battery

- Radiator fan

- Front strut brace

- 1x Screw that hold the coolant bottle in place

- Plastic piece that surrounds the lock in the boot

- 1x Driver door card

- Front series 2 bonnet in white

- Gear stick leather boot( the leather on the stick)

- stock r33 gtst rim with good rubber

ADDED

- r33 gtr rear seats

- Boot trim that covers the battery

- Radiator fan

- Front strut brace

- 1x Screw that hold the coolant bottle in place

- Plastic piece that surrounds the lock in the boot

- 1x Driver door card

- Front series 2 bonnet in white

- Gear stick leather boot( the leather on the stick)

- stock r33 gtst rim with good rubber

ADDED

- r33 gtr rear seats

- Boot trim that covers the battery

- Radiator fan

- Front strut brace

- 1x Screw that hold the coolant bottle in place

- Plastic piece that surrounds the lock in the boot

- 1x Driver door card

- Front series 2 bonnet in white

- Gear stick leather boot( the leather on the stick)

- stock r33 gtst rim with good rubber

ADDED

- r33 gtr rear seats

- Boot trim that covers the battery

- Radiator fan

- Front strut brace

- 1x Screw that hold the coolant bottle in place

- Plastic piece that surrounds the lock in the boot

- 1x Driver door card

- Front series 2 bonnet in white

- Gear stick leather boot( the leather on the stick)

- stock r33 gtst rim with good rubber

- r33 gtr rear seats

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...