Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry if this is a obvious question. i have searched but with no success.

bought a gtr with a blown up flywheel. need to put a new gearbox in it. after looking at the gearbox and noticing those 2 lines coming out of it (see 1st pic) ive gotten under the car and cant see any lines that might connect to these.

In saying that a few lines have been shredded from the flywheel. I have a pic of some lines i think might connect to it but not sure at all really. please help :(

post-57826-0-07884800-1298696741_thumb.jpg

post-57826-0-60870500-1298696755_thumb.jpg

post-57826-0-92782100-1298696766_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355296-hoses-on-gtr-box/
Share on other sites

The hoses on the gearbox are breathers, so largely inconsequential. Notice the bracket on the end has a hole> One of the top gearbox to engine bolts holds it in place when you install the box.

The crushed ones in the other pic are IIRC coolant (the bigger one, goes to the turbos) and at least one of the others is the vac/boost signal for the wastegate actuators. Just follow them around and you'll see what they're connected to. These ones are important so replace them.

The hoses on the gearbox are breathers, so largely inconsequential. Notice the bracket on the end has a hole> One of the top gearbox to engine bolts holds it in place when you install the box.

The crushed ones in the other pic are IIRC coolant (the bigger one, goes to the turbos) and at least one of the others is the vac/boost signal for the wastegate actuators. Just follow them around and you'll see what they're connected to. These ones are important so replace them.

wow. thanks so much!

with these lines, do they still matter considering the car has a t66 (no water cooling) hi mount with external wastegate. (wastegate actuator already has vacume line connected up correctly)

and if they dont do i just get rid of them and block them up. or with the coolent ones would i have to re rout them back in somewhere.

thanks again!

Edited by ae86 boy

wow. thanks so much!

with these lines, do they still matter considering the car has a t66 (no water cooling) hi mount with external wastegate. (wastegate actuator already has vacume line connected up correctly)

and if they dont do i just get rid of them and block them up. or with the coolent ones would i have to re rout them back in somewhere.

thanks again!

Yeah in that case you could probably get rid of all of them. Just check where they all go in case my memory is off and then block them off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Started sifting thru my brakes to decide which ones I will run on Clem   Made me think I should just put them all on Silver...for when brake fade just isn't an option   Should be able to bump rotor up from 343x32 to 348x36 off Supra. Not sure if the Supra annulus is right for the Alcons or APs but trying g to find a used Supra\M4 rotor to test fit The Alcons seem to gain 1-2mm clearance which all helps  
    • So car is getting a few mods to the cage and some jacking points welded in Meantime Ol Silver gets a new gearbox and shiny clutch.  Old Box is being set aside for Clem  
    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
×
×
  • Create New...