Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Coilovers generally require an engineers certificate to demonstrate that they comply with the Australian Design Rules (ADR's) with regards to suspension travel, ride height, eyebrow height (the height from the centre of the hub to the top of the inner guard), and clearance from rubbing on full lock and full suspension travel. Height adjustable coilovers should be marked across the threads and spring perches so that an inspector (cops or rego) can identify if the heights been raised since the time of last rego inspection (to defect you!). My engineers cert was around $700, but i had a bigger suite of mods than you, think about getting one for peace of mind

All that being said it depends upon whether or not you need to be inspected upon transfer of registration or not. If you don't need a vehicle identity check then your mods won't be seen by the rego inspectors, and if you get a friendly local mechanic you should be alright. The cops around town are a mixed bag, and it depends on when and where you drive your liner and how you do so. What won't help is big chromies or a excessively loud exhaust.

Have no idea about Carbon Bonnets, but I imagine they'd be looking to see you have a 'secondary restraint' meaning that it takes two actions to open the bonnet, the pull cable in the cabin followed by the lifting the catch is ussually enough, if the catch is gone, then bonnet pins are OK (concealed type, not sharp protusion type). But as I said have no idea...

Worth considering also is that Teh Federal Department of Infrastructure and transport (forgotten what they're called these days) is looking at introducing a National Code of Pratice (NCOP) for light vehicle modifications.

Edited by Broken_R31

Just don't have it ridiculously low and I doubt you'll ever have a problem. I've got coilovers in my R33 at the moment, but when I got them fitted I asked the dude to raise the car if he believed that would be more practical lol. Just make sure you're easily over 100mm at the lowest point above ground, and you're sweet. 130mm would be preferable

I've had height adjustable coilovers in my 34 since I've had it. I made the previous owner take it past Dickson before buying it and they had no issue with them. Have been inspected roadside a few times since and never had issues with them either. YMMV.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...