Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Coilovers generally require an engineers certificate to demonstrate that they comply with the Australian Design Rules (ADR's) with regards to suspension travel, ride height, eyebrow height (the height from the centre of the hub to the top of the inner guard), and clearance from rubbing on full lock and full suspension travel. Height adjustable coilovers should be marked across the threads and spring perches so that an inspector (cops or rego) can identify if the heights been raised since the time of last rego inspection (to defect you!). My engineers cert was around $700, but i had a bigger suite of mods than you, think about getting one for peace of mind

All that being said it depends upon whether or not you need to be inspected upon transfer of registration or not. If you don't need a vehicle identity check then your mods won't be seen by the rego inspectors, and if you get a friendly local mechanic you should be alright. The cops around town are a mixed bag, and it depends on when and where you drive your liner and how you do so. What won't help is big chromies or a excessively loud exhaust.

Have no idea about Carbon Bonnets, but I imagine they'd be looking to see you have a 'secondary restraint' meaning that it takes two actions to open the bonnet, the pull cable in the cabin followed by the lifting the catch is ussually enough, if the catch is gone, then bonnet pins are OK (concealed type, not sharp protusion type). But as I said have no idea...

Worth considering also is that Teh Federal Department of Infrastructure and transport (forgotten what they're called these days) is looking at introducing a National Code of Pratice (NCOP) for light vehicle modifications.

Edited by Broken_R31

Just don't have it ridiculously low and I doubt you'll ever have a problem. I've got coilovers in my R33 at the moment, but when I got them fitted I asked the dude to raise the car if he believed that would be more practical lol. Just make sure you're easily over 100mm at the lowest point above ground, and you're sweet. 130mm would be preferable

I've had height adjustable coilovers in my 34 since I've had it. I made the previous owner take it past Dickson before buying it and they had no issue with them. Have been inspected roadside a few times since and never had issues with them either. YMMV.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...