Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

the other day i made a phone call to CES (Custom exhaust systems) and they told me that an R33 gtst skyline has stock 143kw at the wheels. they than told me that they have an exhaust system worth, $1900 that will give the car dyno proven 180 to 188kw at the wheels, and after that installing a kn or decent air filter, and turning up the boost to around 11 or 12 they can produce up too 200rkw, do u think this is true, because they say they have dyno proven results and if it is than the car would have to be pushing high to medium 13 second times, wouldnt u think? can someone shead some light on this topic becasue im sure if its true than alot of poeple will want their exhaust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35679-what-do-u-think/
Share on other sites

didn't think just adding an exhaust to a car would give that much of an increase in power?

i thought you would need zorst, air filter, boost and tune to get near the 180rwkw figure, everyone that i know (including me) who has the above mentioned mods (note stock dump pipe) are getting around the 175rwkw on 11-12psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35679-what-do-u-think/#findComment-712150
Share on other sites

hey i wouldnt normally, but the exhaust comes with ceramic twin dump pipes, and they r the only copmany in qld that does proper mandrel bends, also i rang another exhaust shop(Lees exhausts) and they cant even do what (CES) can do and reccomended them to me. so if its true and would give such a power increase than it would be money well spent.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35679-what-do-u-think/#findComment-712183
Share on other sites

Not that this has much reference to you..but, i put an exhaust system on my GTR, power went up 25KW's at all four wheels with nothing else changed. Came at a cost though. TRUST cat back was $1200 and HKS front pipes were almost $900. From what i've seen at several dyno days, R33 GTST's with about 13-14psi, full exhaust, air filter run about 180kw's at the wheels. Every single dyno is different but around 180rwkw seems to be about the normal figure.

Jono

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35679-what-do-u-think/#findComment-712294
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...