Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It seems that fairly stock-type (head porting + cams + manifolds) 30DET builds can go this way too. Pretty streetable and a step forward from the short stroke bottom end, but not a particularly wide useable rpm range where it makes best torque.

The better builds of those using a 25DET head seem to go with decent fabricated exhaust manifolds and open out those exhaust port restrictions. Mine is a mild build with OEM cast manifold but holds peak torque from 3400-7000 with Tighe cams 8.9mm lift and 265 duration. Might not be best for everyone's needs but it suits mine.

Thats a pretty usable torque range. I had peak torque around 3400rpm and it held to about 5400rpm then started falling away. It wasn't a very usable torque range when its paired with 4.11 diff gears and an rb25 gear with fairly narrow gear spacing.

Thats a pretty usable torque range. I had peak torque around 3400rpm and it held to about 5400rpm then started falling away. It wasn't a very usable torque range when its paired with 4.11 diff gears and an rb25 gear with fairly narrow gear spacing.

That's why I went to 3.9:1 diff gears, the small turbo was only letting me rev to ~5500-5800rpm and with the stock gears (4.3) I was slower than an RB20 32GTSt because I was changing gears so often. Even with the 3.9:1 gears, there was so much torque you could roll on in 5th from 80kmh and still pull like a freight train.

Edited by bubba

260 9.15 for up to 850hp on a 26/30. Any longer duration we found just lost response(at the same lift)...and did nothing to max power. Having said that some will argue a longer duration cam will reduce lag(on a Rb26), but I feel that would be related to the associated lift and porting. I for one would love to try the Mines-wave Shore Pro II Cams 252/252 10.05mm. They are designed for a RB26. Tells you something about duration and lift relation to acheiving a responsive engine. I have had some Gibson cams dialed and the told a similar story, although being staggered by a reasonable amount.

After all we are after max average power, having a cam come into its zone from 5000-10000 is not going to be as quick as 3000-8000 on a rb30 that revs to 8000-8500rpm

Matt

Where did the 850hp engine produce it's torque and power Matt?

Does anyone know if there's a typical correlation of cam characteristics on long/er stroke motors in terms of lift and duration ie does a longer stroke generally mean more lift, or more duration? For good reasons in terms of the respective effect of lift and duration there may not be a typical correlation, just wondering.

Not sure what the LS boys do when they go from 5.7 to 6.3 using a stroke rather than bore increase, presumably with a lot of street-built strokers due to mechanical limitations the rpm doesn't increase hugely, suggesting duration stays relatively mild but the extra capacity has to be filled somehow during the longer period of the stroke.

Yeah did some calcs on 3.5 diffs, top speed at 8000 would be 366k/hr but pretty sure it wouldn't get there unless it was 700rwkw.

What did you get the 3.9s from, assuming Stagea is awd?

3.9s are in my 32gtst, came out of an auto S13.

AFAIK the only 4WD ratios are 3.5 (34gtr), 4.08 (Stagea), 4.11 (32/33gtr), 4.36 (32GTS4, not sure what the 33GTS4 and 34GT4 used).

I wonder what the 4WD Cimas used? One would think with a v8 and an auto they would be pretty tall gears..

Where did the 850hp engine produce it's torque and power Matt?

Does anyone know if there's a typical correlation of cam characteristics on long/er stroke motors in terms of lift and duration ie does a longer stroke generally mean more lift, or more duration? For good reasons in terms of the respective effect of lift and duration there may not be a typical correlation, just wondering.

Not sure what the LS boys do when they go from 5.7 to 6.3 using a stroke rather than bore increase, presumably with a lot of street-built strokers due to mechanical limitations the rpm doesn't increase hugely, suggesting duration stays relatively mild but the extra capacity has to be filled somehow during the longer period of the stroke.

It made 823hp

3000rpm 406nm

5000rpm 879nm

7500rpm 759nm

8300rpm 698nm 823hp @ 22psi

BP98 Fuel with 10% methanol

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...