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From Stock Radiator To Pwr


Paulie C
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Hey everybody, does anyone know the measurements to a stock radiator in a R34 GTT. I'm looking at upgrading to a PWR product, If anyone has already done this what were the benefits you saw, how long did it take and how much did it cost.

Cheers

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Two bolts for shroud, two bolts for radiator top supports... bottom hose, flush coolant, remove top hose, remove radiator and replace.

Took me about 20 minutes to remove the old one and replace. Looks fat and will give you so much better cooling potential. Very worthwhile upgrade in my opinion.... next is silicone hoses and better clamps.

Also the radiator has nice strong alloy hose outlets, as opposed to crappy plastic ones that break in your hoses.

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Thanks mate spoke to a guy called jamie at Natrad radiators in midvale said its top of the line in radiators, but also mentioned that if your at the lights it can creep up over half way on the thermostat, but as soon as you get going again it flys back down, do you think this is a huge problem or is it cause that the radiator is made out of aluminium. Also I'm gettin a Garrett GT30 turbo upgrade, bigger injectors and a airflow meter installed soon do you think that having the radiator put in will help keep everything cooler or be the same with a stock.

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That's cause he's trying to sell u thermo fans as well don't worry about it my racing alloy triple core is awesome I even have the intercooler mounted in front of it and still doesn't budge over half with half airflow Impeded

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It will probably be the same as stock or better. Ebay aluminum radiators work a treat :) no problems with them so for a while.

Depends what you're using them for.

I had an ebay ally radiator and it used to heatsoak something horrid after half an hour on the hwy and temps would just steadily increase. It also couldn't handle a decent burnout on a 40deg day, would spit coolant everywhere.

Turfed it in favour of a stock 32GTR radiator and the difference was huge. Temps well under control, a good 2.5min burnout on a 40deg day would see no more than 105deg.

Also a FYI, temps WILL increase when stationary UNTIL hot enough to engage the clutch on the engine fan. If it gets TOO hot, the A/C fan will kick in.

Another FYI, you won't notice the needle on your factory temp gauge move until the temps are over 100deg.

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  • 10 months later...

Nah not yet mate was gonna be the last of my engine mods, previous mods were tomei typeB camshafts, bigger rear housing on turbo, on top of other previous mods now running 324HP so pretty decent for everday car will post up when done and if increase in hp or better performance overall. Spoke to a guy a Natrad radiators a few times, so have a few other people on this site says there the shit, so i will have it done eventually.

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Are you having overheating problems at the moment? Do you have an oil cooler?

I am running the stock radiator and clutch fan with 400rwhp and no overheating issues.. Got a bit hot on the AHG pan with then it was understandable considering the ambient temps.

An oil cooler would be of a lot greater assistance than going for a replacement radiator - unless it is faulty.

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Are you having overheating problems at the moment? Do you have an oil cooler?

I am running the stock radiator and clutch fan with 400rwhp and no overheating issues.. Got a bit hot on the AHG pan with then it was understandable considering the ambient temps.

An oil cooler would be of a lot greater assistance than going for a replacement radiator - unless it is faulty.

Good point on the oil cooler. I'm not sure about the OP but my radiator is visually rusted inside so I'll conduct another flush and replacement. I'm also considering a cross-flow radiator. Anyone have any experience with the PWR crossflow (or any other company)?

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  • 2 weeks later...

In all honesty mate spend your money on something else for your car.

My 32 is running a standard rad and after 5-6 laps of beating the piss out of it around barbs it is still only around about 115 deg.

IMO dont replace it unless it's broken

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