Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1989 R32 nissan skyline 4 door. GTS-T. with RB25DET ENGINE CONVERTION and RB25DET 5 speed manual gearbox ALL REGENCY APPROVED AND COMPLIED!!!!

-128,000kms

-5 speed manual

-280kmh nismo dash cluster

-GENIUNE R32 GTR FRONT BAR

Re-mapped R32 ECU-RB20 HI-FLO Turbo(so it winds boost very early and aggresively :)-Intercooler-R33 GTST brakes-3inch performance exhaust all the way from turbo back-aftermarket fuel pump-aftermarket swing arms,sway bars- full alarm and immobiliser setup with REMOTE START FROM 1km AWAY!! car starts itself :)-Electronic boost controller-turbo timer-awesome stereo. twin jbl subs,twin amps(been in street machine cause of stereo recorded at 128db with old system. now got new system just hasent been recorded.) holds sound great.-18x10.5 inch roh massive dish wheels worth $3,250 NEW!! (these wheels are what makes this car look as good as it does) seriously-3 new tyres-Momo Racing legal steering wheel.-lightened flywheel-shimmed diff-hi-cass locker bar.( slides like a dream :P )FULLY ADJUSTABLE TEIN HA COILOVERS!! LIST IS TOO BIG :)

this is the 1989 model so the exhaust emissions are alot less strict. legally aloud to be 119db- r32 1989+ =93db

THIS CAR HAS BEEN IN AUTOSALON TWICE AND OTHER VARIOUS CAR CRUISES. NEED IT GONE ASAP CAUSE I NEED A 4WD AND MORE OF A WORK CAR AS IM A CONSTRUCTION WORKER. SERIOUS BUYERS ONLY. JEREMY SCHENSCHER....CALL MY MOBILE ON 0427142906 OR 0448113696 IF 1ST NUMBER DOESNT WORK THOUSANDS SPENT!!!!!!!!!!!!

post-73973-0-97620500-1300454326_thumb.jpg

post-73973-0-57509900-1300454364_thumb.jpg

post-73973-0-29007000-1300454619_thumb.jpg

Edited by Schenscher
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357908-fsr32-skyline-gts-t-must-see/
Share on other sites

so have you just bought my old car and raised the price or whats the story???

i know it was advertised for around the 13k mark about a month ago.

also who installed the hiflo turbo?

was only a stock rb20 turbo sitting top mount when i built the car and sold it

would also love to know where u got the price for those rims from.

i personally know the person who had those rims made and he doesnt know how much they set him back. but yes not cheap.

lightened flywheel???

been in autosaloon once as i did it and that was 08 just after spikes auto painted it.

wouldnt bullshit ppl as this car is very well know and ppl know whats in it especially on the forums

also it has seen the track as i did some sliding in it.

also using your old pictures....that's your number on the front windscreen? lol

ha ha yea. that was the day i went out balls and all and slammed f*k out of it for street machines assoc car show.

did a lil drive in it like that and got some serious attention. even a cop chucked a u bolt but traffic let me cruise off. lol

im waiting for the pic to surface with my old engine bay shot with the crap to4 on it.

no i havent just raised the price mate. when i purchased the car it had the rb25 in it but an rb20 gearbox :( i upgraded it to an rb25det gearbox which cost me roughly $2,200 due to all the mod needed to suit e.g shortened tailshaft(properly balanced) and had to make custom brackets to fit gearbox as rb25 is 10mm longer then rb20. i got the price from roh for the wheels. these are new prices. put platnum spark plugs coilpacks. gauges etc. it is well worth the money buddy. im not bagging u in anyway sneaky as u are the builder of a f**kING machine :) i just need a 4wd hey.. for work and camping :)

it was advertised for 13k with the gearbox and tailshaft mod done previously.

seriously i dont know why it didnt get sold then.

i had several ppl ring me up and let me know that it was for sale and that is why i looked.

i never got defected in that car but f*k i came close once. he was nice and stuck by the rule book.

tires have to be inside the guards but yet cause of the stretch i had the rims were outside guards.

still have vin number sticker sittin here issued but transport sa about 18mths ago.

it was insanely clean when i had this car. i have stupid amount of pics somewhere of various parts of the build and paint prep.

still want the wheels back so they can go on the original car they were actually built for so i can drift on them again.

would love to see more pics of it up tho. engine interior and exterior.

Edited by sneaky1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...