Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Thrown a curve ball on a recent oil pump change on an RB25DET. Brief schedule of events:

Built motor run in and no problems, customer wanted to change N1 oil pump to Nitto for obvious reasons.

Pump change completed, all normal considerations attended to (prime pump etc) and it was cranked with oil pressure(no plugs / load on engine).

Engine was then prepared and started to bleed coolant and oil level was checked at correct level both BEFORE and AFTER initial start. Oil pressure still normal at this stage.

A few starts later, and the customer drove the car to tuner to have dyno run, and upon shutting the engine off oil pressure was fine and normal, and upon restart NO OIL PRESSURE (verified on factory light, oil pressure gauge and Defi Oil Pressure gauge / ie 3 independent sources. Tuner pulls of Turbo oil feed, starts car for a brief moment, no oil coming out. Car towed at this stage.

I get it back, suspecting blocked pickup. Remove everything including oil pump - no obstructions SEEN however I have pressurised oil system using AIR PRESSURE and seen a corresponding pressure indication on Oil pressure gauges. Oil pump was stripped, no blockage / foreign matter, gears excellent and no witness marks anywhere. Repacked oil pump with vas, and reinstalled. Via external oil filter block, pressure side of oil system back to pump primed with around 600ml or so of fresh oil (didn't measure) till full and clear of bubbles/air. Filter filled with oil, cooler pressurised with oil (using gearbox syringe and fitting) and then engine cranked once again (no plugs) with oil pressure coming up within 10secs of initial crank and normal limits.

I am confident of the installation (both times) however although I have got oil pressure back, I wonder what the cause was in the first place?? I have covered everything twice and simple things like the oil filter installation is correct. Has anyone experienced this phenomenon??????

I call for experienced engine builders etc here, please don't tell me once you filled your lawnmower with fuel and now you can service the QE2.......

No thermostat on the oil cooler setup, and seal on pickup was fine. No o ring on the pickup used - there is a gasket. I agree about the no cause found..... however there was no oil pressure previous and I have made totally sure the path from the pickup to oil pump to filter and back to block (where the factory oil pressure sender / light switch) is totally unobstructed.

Have Adrian or you contacted Paul who built it? He may have an answer. I'm not quiet sure how it can become blocked if its done a track day with the N1 pump and it never had a problem. The one thing it did do is suck all the material out of the pod filter as it was mounted too close to the turbo and was a cheap pod filter. But I don't see how any of that material could of made its way through the motor?

Have Adrian or you contacted Paul who built it? He may have an answer. I'm not quiet sure how it can become blocked if its done a track day with the N1 pump and it never had a problem. The one thing it did do is suck all the material out of the pod filter as it was mounted too close to the turbo and was a cheap pod filter. But I don't see how any of that material could of made its way through the motor?

I don't believe it is the PRV either - no witness marks on the piston, and it needs the max oil press (120psi) to actuate, therefore ruling it out from the idle shutdown and restart scenario.

Experience tells me whoever did the pump change put the oil cooler/relocator lines ass about and this fed pressure up the inside of the oil filter forcing it to reverse flow. This mistake has caused the engine to starve of oil due to the anti drain back valve inside the filter. When it was returned to the person who did this they realised what they had done and put them around the right way. They then gave away they may have already knew the cause by posting this line on the internet I have covered everything twice and simple things like the oil filter installation is correct.

I could be wrong but as you asked for advice from someone with experience i thought i might give some.

Experience tells me whoever did the pump change put the oil cooler/relocator lines ass about and this fed pressure up the inside of the oil filter forcing it to reverse flow. This mistake has caused the engine to starve of oil due to the anti drain back valve inside the filter. When it was returned to the person who did this they realised what they had done and put them around the right way. They then gave away they may have already knew the cause by posting this line on the internet I have covered everything twice and simple things like the oil filter installation is correct.

I could be wrong but as you asked for advice from someone with experience i thought i might give some.

It would never have had any oil pressure if this was the case (or only what could get passed the prv) and as blue32 said after about 10sec of winding 1st time around oil pressure was seen. And winding an engine on the starter isn't going to open a prv.

guys the anti drain back flap will pass oil till the pressure eventually forces it to completely block flow. Im sure if you cut open the filter the anti drain back flap would be marked where it was forced against the holes. If it had no anti drain flap it may have been filter element or bypass failure as ive also seen the filter membrane eventually collapse from running in reverse and also the internal bypass valve collapse in others. Get the filter and inspect it as there are clues left at every crime scene that tell the story of what happened, you just need to be experienced enough to know where to look.

Engines dont mysteriously loose oil pressure then have it return unless there is a root cause. When you consider it only occurred after the engine had been worked on and now pressure has returned after it had been again worked on with no component change leaves no doubt it was some human error that had caused it.

What size sump does it have? As the only other thing that may have happened is the nitto pump has emptied the sump during the 40mins and the oil system had developed a big air lock unable to move any oil that had since returned. Just a thought.

Edited by Supa Steve

Experience tells me whoever did the pump change put the oil cooler/relocator lines ass about and this fed pressure up the inside of the oil filter forcing it to reverse flow. This mistake has caused the engine to starve of oil due to the anti drain back valve inside the filter. When it was returned to the person who did this they realised what they had done and put them around the right way. They then gave away they may have already knew the cause by posting this line on the internet I have covered everything twice and simple things like the oil filter installation is correct.

I could be wrong but as you asked for advice from someone with experience i thought i might give some.

I thank you for your input - and you are right that this would indeed cause the issue, albeit with different characteristics (like it wouldn't make 8 Bar of oil pressure when cold and a few revs onboard if the PRV was venting oil straight back to the sump). The filter is still sitting on the workbench and you are welcome to inspect, however you will find no problem as the filter / cooler setup has not been manipulated. It also begs the question why would I bother to post this quandry if I knew the problem in the first place??

You have been helpful outlining a possible cause - as this is the reason I started the thread in the first place, however I can assure you that the reason is definately not what you have posted. Any other ideas? :D

What size sump does it have? As the only other thing that may have happened is the nitto pump has emptied the sump during the 40mins and the oil system had developed a big air lock unable to move any oil that had since returned. Just a thought.

This is another possibilty - factory sump however Adrian stated the car was being driven sedately to the tuners (obviously prior to tuning) and I wouldn't expect a high oil flow / feed situation to the head - especially on the street. The engine also runs head restrictors and external oil return to the sump. Also, once the oil pump is past initial prime and coated with oil, the pump should pump air. Many Rb's that spin bearings on the track etc suck air only for a short period of time then regain oil pressure - although by then the damage is done.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...