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New Takeda Intake And Gtspec Strut Brace

Stuart McK
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Stuart McK Collaborator

Stuart McK

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Posted (edited)

Thought some of you may be interested in my recent weekend's work.

After a recent trip back from QLD (I live in Canberra) in the mighty V35, I got to wondering what I could do to the car to improve its handling and get some additional horse power for minimal cost and effort. After a bit of research I settled on a front strut brace and a cold air intake to replace the stock unit (I'd researched a supposed 13HP improvement, but that's yet to be seen). I opted not to go for a matching rear strut brace because the boot is small enough as it is, and the bar would have cut right through the middle of it.

My criteria for the intake was it was to use the existing inlet (the Power duct) to keep it to looking inobtrusive. Bit more research and I decided not to run with the Stillen intake kit, but run with the Takeda 'retain' kit - their pod air filter does not require oiling and it fully replaced the stock intake assembly (the Stillen relied on use of a Z-tube also). Also decided to go with the GTspec strut brace, because unlike the Stillen unit it could be installed over the engine cover without need for its permanent removal.

Total cost for both components shipped from b2autodesigns in the U.S.: AUS$620 inc $ conversion fee. Shipped within 1 day (!!) after PayPal order received and 9 days to arrive. b2 were the cheapest quote of 3 I received, and I had to chase up the others while b2 were extremely responsive (emails turned around within a day or so).

Tools: 10mm & 12mm socket wrench, large flathead screwdriver, large phillips head screw driver, pliers (to remove the air vacuum clip on intake), a rubber mallet, and a good mate (thanks again, Andrew).

Time: 3 hours (allowing time to talk crap, etc)

Process: Unscrew stuff - re-screw stuff. Seriously, the instructions that came from Takeda were foolproof. Only thing required is to keep some clips and remove the stock MAF sensor to reinstall in the new intake tube. The strut brace was a little more exciting. Mounts went into position with amazing precision (we were both very impressed). HOWEVER, when installing the bar it was a couple of mm short to get either bolt through to secure. Had to remove mount on one side, keeping other in place but loosely mounted, bolt in bar both sides (with one mount in the air), and then seat the remaining mount. The last step had to be done with brute force, using bolting down of the bolts as a means on pulling all bolt holes into alignment. Rubber mallet used here, but care to be taken with bolt threads.

Result: [photos attached] What does it feel like? Acceleration seems a little more punchy with a louder growl. Feel the impact of the strut brace mainly coming out of circles - it feels more solid and I'm more confident pushing down on the accelerator earlier. Worth the money? That's a question for each individual to answer. happy.gif

Stock intake: For those curious, photo attached of the stock intake assembly removed. Note the back of the power duct is not retained (the Takeda retain kit has it's own), note the hole where the MAF sensor is unscrewed, and the size of the air baffle which hides itself under the intake line (looks like a gun grip). Takeda replaced it as a single chromed tube.

post-74388-0-71113800-1300667208_thumb.jpg

post-74388-0-37409500-1300667223_thumb.jpg

post-74388-0-53285400-1300667392_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stuart McK
  • 1 month later...
Stuart McK Collaborator

Stuart McK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

http://afepower.com/shop/details_new.php?partno=TR-3015P&filter&menu=gas&searchtype=word&keyword=takeda&brandID=78

But don't buy there - do your own research...

  • 4 months later...
ka86 Collaborator

ka86

Posted
Posted

I too just recently acquired a Takeda Intake Kit.

Rather than making a new thread, thought I would post here.. and annoy the OP :P

Contents of box

post-52513-0-25601700-1315022225_thumb.jpg

Came with Bonus License Plate cover (USDM) and some stickers including a Ninja sticker :ninja:.. some of the G35 boys mentioned theirs came with a keyring but that was awhile ago.

Pics of it installed (yes ignore dirty EB.. been mucking around alot and haven't had a chance cleaning it up!!)

post-52513-0-39040500-1315022448_thumb.jpg post-52513-0-14437200-1315022581_thumb.jpg

All in all went well, rear of box is closer to engine and found the secondary duct for the box (the left one located above the radiator) didn't sit in place properly, had to move it to the right and use the factory plugs to retain though not as sealed as OEM box which is weird as front of OEM box is retained but doesn't cause any dramas. I'm thinking of mocking up a bracket to bolt to the OEM mounting point on the chassis (OEM box is mounted from the bottom and joined to the chassis on the right).

Car responds alot better from about 3k onwards.. is alot louder too lol. Only thing is I find with the new intake is that it amplifies the loss of power caused by the OEM Plenum angle. This will improved once I get the Motordyne Spacer.

THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:

There are I'd say 3 main things to look out for.

Firstly the screws holding the original AFM in look like these:

post-52513-0-83885800-1315022973_thumb.jpg

I had the relevant shaped drivers but was inhibited by the metal point in the middle so it requires a similar shaped driver with hollow centre. The workaround for this however was I used a pair of thick pliers, tightly held it on the screw and turned it and it worked. :turned:

Another thing to look out for is the stock vacum line.This is an important component for engines and any cracks/kinking etc isn't good.

I found that mine kinking a little bit like this:

post-52513-0-18999900-1315023285_thumb.jpg

It's not as bad as it looks however wasn't happy with it so trimmed the end part I think an inch or so and the kink is more of a S bend now.

The last thing isn't as major but relevant. Make sure when putting the clamp onto the silicone couplers NOT to tighten it at all as the joiners have a tight stretch over the Throttle Body and Pod Filter.

Question for OP Stuart.

It came with a thin piece of rubber.. the book says its a rubber trim. What did you/did you use this? The AFM wires are already covered up and couldn't find a place to make use of it. Instructions don't say where to use it, the last pic of the book shows it connected (comparing to the first pic on the book of the engine bay)

That's about it. :thumbsup:

Stuart McK Collaborator

Stuart McK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I too just recently acquired a Takeda Intake Kit.

Rather than making a new thread, thought I would post here.. and annoy the OP :P

Hey, no problem - anyone can see I've got the cleaner car... nyaanyaa.gif

Seriously, I agree with the sound. Much more of a growl on acceleration - very cool. I believe my fuel economy has gone down though, and I'm thinking of seeing if there is any way of 'tuning' the MAF which I think is the culprit (the air/fuel ratio has possibly been thrown off and it may be dumping excess fuel on acceleration now).

The black rubber trim is meant to go around the edge of the replacement rear intake box. You'll need to slot it on and stretch it around the unit, trimming off what's left over. It is supposed to ensure a clean seal when the two parts (original and new Takeda replacement rear) are latched together. You want to ensure the intake is sucking air through the filter, and not through a poor join in the intake box.

And I also noted the lack of a mount near the intake (where one was previously). The kit is a high quality one, but I would have thought that was an easy addition to ensure the box doesn't move around. That being said, the intake is fairly rigid and so the box doesn't move anyway.

  • 2 weeks later...
ka86 Collaborator

ka86

Posted
Posted

Hey, no problem - anyone can see I've got the cleaner car... nyaanyaa.gif

This guy!! :rolleyes:

The black rubber trim is meant to go around the edge of the replacement rear intake box. You'll need to slot it on and stretch it around the unit, trimming off what's left over. It is supposed to ensure a clean seal when the two parts (original and new Takeda replacement rear) are latched together. You want to ensure the intake is sucking air through the filter, and not through a poor join in the intake box.

Wow.. can't believe I missed that. So far has been good so will pull it out trim it up!! Cheers for the info. Recently got the Motordyne spacer and front/rear strut.

  • 8 months later...
Vthirty5 Enthusiast

Vthirty5

Posted
Posted

Sorry to revive a thread, but I recieved the exact same Takeda short ram today... Only issue is as ive been installing it is the MAF goes in the reverse way?? :S Did you find this??

Im stressing a bit, as the parents think Im a dick for buying all this stuff for my car... Oh well, the joys. If anyone knows please get back to me ASAP.

Cheers.

Stuart McK Collaborator

Stuart McK

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Sorry to revive a thread, but I recieved the exact same Takeda short ram today... Only issue is as ive been installing it is the MAF goes in the reverse way?? :S Did you find this??

Not sure I understand. Are you saying the installation didn't look like mine? Not that I had a close-up of the sensor but... Maybe a photo would help. Can you get the angle? [and no smart comments from anyone else here - my girlfriend may be reading this ;-) ]

Edited by Stuart McK

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