Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day fellow SAU members,

This may have been covered before but rather than paying $6,000 for a non-turbo R33 with high km's I have been thinking about purchasing a RB25DE with low km's and putting it into a r33 GTS-T roller. My question is, would I need a mod plate because the GTS-T was released with the turbo engine and I will be installing the non-turbo engine? I just want to put it to rest so I can go forth and start this project of mine.

And I don't want to hear about how I should just get a non-turbo, I am not stupid. I know what is involved with this installation and I have done plenty of engine transplants with my father over the years. I am just confused on the legality of such an installation.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358247-rb25de-into-gts-t-shell/
Share on other sites

Not sure what the laws are in qld regarding converstions like that.

BUT....if you were in Vic all you would need is to change the engine number over at VicRoads and away you go. Because the R33s came out with that particular engine (the RB25DE) you wont need a mod plate. And i believe this is also the case if you were to do a 26 or even a 20 as they both made appearances in that shell aswell.

If you're doing it so that you can drive the car on your P plates, it will still come up as a turbo model because the VIN number is persistent no matter what engine or engine number you put onto it. Therefore still illegal to drive on your P plates even with the DE engine.

If you're just doing it because it's cheaper or you already have a rolling chassis and are not on your P plates, go nuts. Best people to speak to are your local traffic authority / governing body / RTA.

I thought I would give an update, in Queensland it is legal on p-plate restrictions as long as a change of vehicle particulars form is submitted which indicates to main roads/policing body that the car with that specific VIN is now a non-turbo/naturally aspirated vehicle.

Lol such an unnecessary dick around.

Sell current car

Buy GTS

Spend saved monies on wheels and suspension

Sleep well at night knowing you havnt ruined a completely good GTSt

Profit, get bitches.

Or, you could completely ignore us and do it anyway, your choice,

Í am not doing it, I was going to a while ago then I had a sudden urge to get a skyline again after getting over them because they became quite common in the recent times. Now I settled back on my idea I had about a year ago and that was building a RB26/30. So over the next 18months I will be doing this and a thread will be going up within the next couple of weeks if you older boys want to give me some tips. I have been reading a couple of other threads mostly huddy's and Simonster's, so I have a fairly good scope on oil mods that I didn't know of before. So hate if your gonna hate, but if not welcome :)

Cheers

Edited by azarawr

Í am not doing it, I was going to a while ago then I had a sudden urge to get a skyline again after getting over them because they became quite common in the recent times. Now I settled back on my idea I had about a year ago and that was building a RB26/30. So over the next 18months I will be doing this and a thread will be going up within the next couple of weeks if you older boys want to give me some tips. I have been reading a couple of other threads mostly huddy's and Simonster's, so I have a fairly good scope on oil mods that I didn't know of before. So hate if your gonna hate, but if not welcome :)

Cheers

Smart lad.

Good luck,

Just outta curiosity, how old are you?

I am 19 in July and I am a second year mechanical engineering student at QUT and my mother and father have an r33 series 2 gts-t and dad has been working on that for the last couple of years. So I have some guidance, how do you think I got the rb26/30 idea ;)

Í am not doing it, I was going to a while ago then I had a sudden urge to get a skyline again after getting over them because they became quite common in the recent times. Now I settled back on my idea I had about a year ago and that was building a RB26/30. So over the next 18months I will be doing this and a thread will be going up within the next couple of weeks if you older boys want to give me some tips. I have been reading a couple of other threads mostly huddy's and Simonster's, so I have a fairly good scope on oil mods that I didn't know of before. So hate if your gonna hate, but if not welcome :)

Cheers

TL;DR: we were right?

;)

And that's all it is, urges! Read all the laws that apply to you and THEN consider what you can do with a Skyline :)

TL;DR: we were right?

;)

And that's all it is, urges! Read all the laws that apply to you and THEN consider what you can do with a Skyline :)

Yer, dad was on your side he said why bother when you can build a turbo and in 18 months you can drive it, thank god for parents right :)

I am 19 in July and I am a second year mechanical engineering student at QUT and my mother and father have an r33 series 2 gts-t and dad has been working on that for the last couple of years. So I have some guidance, how do you think I got the rb26/30 idea ;)

2nd year mech engineering wont bag you the experience to build an engine bro.

I've done about half of an automotive engineering course, and I still wouldn't build an entire engine myself. It requires specialty tools and skills that you can't get from anywhere but an engine builder.

I'm not saying don't have a go, but don't expect it to last that many KMs if it's built in a backyard, and I think it's gonna cost ya a bit more than a student budget will stretch to build a reliable 26/30.

save up and let a performance workshop/machinist build it, by all means put it in yourself etc, but I don't think you realise the work involved for a 26/30 build.

good luck champ!

Oh yer, I didn't mean to sound cocky I was just trying to say that this will be my life's work so it isnt just a pipedream and I am going to commit to it. I am going to get my head ported and valvetrain put together possibly with jhh engineering. I may balance and machine my crank with them also. I am going to build the components as I go and in the end get it tuned by an engine builder that specializes in motec ecu systems.

Student wages are shit I know but it won't be going together for another year or so, so I am not expecting to finish it by July.

Thanks for the advice though :)

Aaron

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...