Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI guys,

Im asking this on behalf of a friend. She just recently bought a 99 skyline GT 4 door. The car was running fine when she bought it last month but now have develops what could be described as a shudder.

The car seems to shake when the revs are low and sometimes conks out when idling. Also sems to have lost a bit of power. Any help with this issue would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358399-engine-shuddering-need-help/
Share on other sites

I had a similar issue when i bought my 99 non turbo, at the lights the engine will shudder but go away whilst driving.......mine went away when i put in some some fuel injector cleaner and put nothing but 98 petrol.

Ill give that a go. Found out that the car was run to nearly empty maybe it could have some sediment gone through the system or just dodgy fuel. Might try to drain the tank.

how did you get on with the injector cleaner?

mine just started doing this also, - ive been thru the whole coil pack problem and this issue feels much different to me - after a long road trip my car now likes to 'shudder' while idling, but it only seems to start doing it after driving for about 10-15 min after it really warms up, you can really feel it sorta thumping the back of the drivers seat thru the exhaust, yet the engine runs perfectly smooth and rev needle doesnt move. engine light has not come on yet. sometimes when its bad enough it will also struggle to accelerate under throttle, but seems to go thru patches in the rev range where its nice and smooth but then sputters.

about 30km before the problem started i had just filled up my tank from the 1/4 mark and wonder if i got sum dirty/old gas???

thanks.

I dont think you guys have a coilpack problem considering there is no engine light that should be on to indicate this, even if the petrol injector cleaner does not work it does not hurt to throw it in....my mechanic does it to all the cars he servies and reckon its helping to a degree.

best to start a process of elimination.......start with the basics (and interesting enough youd be suprised how many problems can be the simplest of things)....but good luck anyway :)

ps carby cleaner is good stuff too......

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well if you're getting idle hunting when not using the accelerator it's your aac valve, theres a tutorial on how to clean it out. Here it is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/page__hl__diy+aac+cleaning

I find on my r33 that because of my faulty cam angle sensor the timing jumps out and the car feels strangely underpowered in some of the rev range but this problem is intermitant. I took my injectors out and had them professionally cleaned, guess it cant hurt to get it done.

I dont think you guys have a coilpack problem considering there is no engine light that should be on to indicate this, even if the petrol injector cleaner does not work it does not hurt to throw it in....my mechanic does it to all the cars he servies and reckon its helping to a degree.

The "Check Engine" light won't come on for coil-pack issues.

Steps to fix this problem:

  • Run shell V-Power (My R33 has a Shell Premium sticker on the fuel tanker.. can only assume they want me using shells premium petrol)
  • Run an injector cleaner (wynns spitfire, for instance)
  • Pull each spark plug out and have a geez at it; are they browning badly? YOu may need to change them.
  • If your spark plugs are functioning fine, it could be a coilpack issue. Check over them for small cracks or damage. I've personally covered mine in silicon which has slightly assisted with my misfire issue.
  • Have you washed the cars engine bay recently?

The AAC valve sounds interesting.. I'll have to do a bit of research about this.

Edited by SKITTLES

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...