Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my car hits 14-15psi at 3000 but drops back to 10-11 at redline. pod, fmic, nice big intake piping, turbo-back exhaust. turboxs bleed too. i'm considering a different actuator, EBC or autospeed boost controller (altho i doubt it would hold it any better?)

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I tested out my boost holding capabilities last night, it seems to hold 15 pound, but does drop off to 13.5psi or so somewhere high i the revs.

It is hard to watch the boost gauge, tacho and the road at the same time hehe

I will try and get the datalogging going and see if I can get a read out some time this week

Adam

ive already got the details about the hks actuator, sorry i should have posted already/

Hi Dean,

Hope you are well. Pricing information as requested:

HKS Actuator Update Kit R33 GTSt: 11,384 yen

Shipping: 2,500 yen

TOTAL: 13,884 yen AU$170

Notes: The above actuator is rated for use 0.8 ~ 0.9kgf/cm2.

I didnt end up gettin it cos one came available here, yet the person sellin hasnt mad any contact since he posted it for sale. Anyway i have no money atm, so will have to wait a while before i get this.

Cool - that would be nice :)

I think 0.8 - 0.9 kg works out to be about 12-13psi isn't it ??

That's pretty good, and pretty much smack on what I'm looking for. I suppose if you were really keen you could bleed off 1-2psi to get to 1 bar. But at least you would drop boost like I am :D

J

when i get some money ill let u know how it goes.

Does any body have any info on the wastgate actuator for R32 turbo ive heard it doesnt open til 10psi.

Is this true?

Would it fit in place of the r33 item?

Anybody else done this?

HKS one is cheap enough but im not keen on running 12 - 13psi with standard intercooler/turbo. Plus anymore the 10psi and my engine seems to ping on hot days. Gets to over 40 deg there in Horsham.

Does any body have any info on the wastgate actuator for R32 turbo ive heard it doesnt open til 10psi.

Would it fit in place of the r33 item?

Anybody else done this?

HKS one is cheap enough but im not keen on running 12 - 13psi with standard intercooler/turbo. Plus anymore the 10psi and my engine seems to ping on hot days. Gets to over 40 deg there in Horsham.

Hi Munna

Is this true?

**Yes

Would it fit in place of the r33 item?

**Yes

Anybody else done this?

**Yes, many times

anymore the 10psi and my engine seems to ping on hot days.

**You have a tuning problem, too much ignition advance or too little fuel. I strongly suggest you get it tuned properly.

Hope that helps

Dean: I found that boost drop on the standard turbo was caused by a combination of reduced ignition timing up top (which reduced combustion pressure and exhaust flow) and the turbo being unable to flow any more air because of high back pressure and cylinder back filling at high rpm. The Vg30 exhuast housing with no other mods on the Rb25 turbo held 15psi to redline. I actually locked my wastegate closed and my RB25 turd and it still still didn't hold boost.... hope that helps

Hi Munna

Is this true?

**Yes

Would it fit in place of the r33 item?

**Yes

Anybody else done this?

**Yes, many times

anymore the 10psi and my engine seems to ping on hot days.

**You have a tuning problem, too much ignition advance or too little fuel.  I strongly suggest you get it tuned properly.

Hope that helps

Thanks Sydney Kid one more thing

where can I get one from?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...