Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all my starter motor has been making funny noises over the last couple of days but was still working fine, now when i try to start the car it wont crank at all. I'm guising it has died but im just wondering if anyone knows any obvious stuff like relays to check or possible dirty conections? I do all the work on my car but have never done anything with my starter motor.

any suggestions would be great!

Rhet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359045-starting-problem/
Share on other sites

well i finally got my starter off after speding 1 hour on a single bolt! also i picked an RB30 starter up from malz and was wondering if anyone in here has used one of these before? i read in here it is compatable but my new starter is slightly larger and has a plug on it i guess i just piss it off? check the pics you will see what i mean.

post-56886-0-35175400-1301369054_thumb.jpg

post-56886-0-29507200-1301369089_thumb.jpg

post-56886-0-45672200-1301369104_thumb.jpg

there are only two bolts that hold this thing on so you wouldnt think it would be that hard! but i just spent the last hour trying to get the top bolt started in the thread and i just cant do it! im just about ready to go postal on this thing

on your original starter motor, it could have been that your magnetic switch was just stuck, if you would have hit it a couple of times with a heavier object and then tried starting your car, that could have worked....

has happened a heap of times to some of my mates and me throughout the years

yep the top bolt is a real pain in the ass... good luck with it, hope you have small hands..

yeah i finally got it but i had to wait for my bro to come home, my hands are not small unfortunatly, im 6,4 and 118kg so i cant really climb on my motor to help out either lol, glad i got it now though!

on your original starter motor, it could have been that your magnetic switch was just stuck, if you would have hit it a couple of times with a heavier object and then tried starting your car, that could have worked....

has happened a heap of times to some of my mates and me throughout the years

yeah i gave it a bash this morning and it started once, but it def needed replacing. All good now though only problem is it sounds like a VL when you crank it over LOL!

yeah i finally got it but i had to wait for my bro to come home, my hands are not small unfortunatly, im 6,4 and 118kg so i cant really climb on my motor to help out either lol, glad i got it now though!

yeah i gave it a bash this morning and it started once, but it def needed replacing. All good now though only problem is it sounds like a VL when you crank it over LOL!

Pull it apart, remove the plate holding the brushes, I'm willing to bet that one, or all will be worn and not making proper contact.

Take the plate to your local auto elec, get him to solder on new brushes (the leads are very thick; a home soldering iron won't do it) go home, clean & rebuild starter; happy in the knowlege that you just spent $40-$50 instead of $180 and the end result is exactly the same.

/\ you want my old one? Haha, i needed my car back today as I only have 1 and work is 40ks away, I might hang onto my old one for a spare.

Lol, nah thats ok... Postage would be a killer.

Didn't see that you'd bought a new one actually, but now you've got plenty of time to sort it out as a spare.

I know what you mean with the VL Bosch starter though; I ended up repairing my Hitachi one because I hated the sound of the straight cut gear drive in the Bosch, versus the helical gears in the Hitachi, so much quieter.

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...