Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In my previous gtr, i built the engine back in 2005 & used an n1 pump as back then they weren’t breaking & there was no stigma attached...to date, that engine & oil pump is still going strong & makes 400awkw.

My mate also runs an n1 oil pump in his r33 which makes close to 350awkw & he has covered about 50,000km over the past 4 years, no problem whatsoever!

On the other hand though, when i built my most recent engine in 2009 I also used an n1 oil pump (making 405awkw) & the thing broke after a few thousand kms – yes i was revving hard when it let go & hit the limiter, had a ross balancer.

From what ive heard & also seen with my own eyes, the old n1 pumps are solid whereas the most recent n1 pumps are crap – there was speculation that the manufacturing plant had possibly moved to china? Not really sure myself...

Correct me if i am wrong but I THINK that when the gears gave way and siezed the engine must have had some torque behind it and kept spinning inside the pump and just shredded them away...

You can see there was a f load of heat inside there at one point :)

nice main bolts btw

that was my old N1 pump, i was sooo paranoid about it after TM ruined 3 new engines in his R33 after he broke 3 N1 oil pumps... He was revving too 9500RPM but when they all broke,

Anthony that N1 pump was running in my engine without a crank collar too.

I ended up going all out buying a Tomei pump and collar etc.

pull the girdle off and lay the main bearings out in order and see what they look like.

ps. all the plugs are still in the crank? especialy adjacent to the damaged bearing..

Can you please do this and post up the pics of the bearings, both front and back of the bearings. :thanks:

Yeah :) was not going to mention any names.. but il never forget that day.

My rb30 had a oil leak and i could never pin point it. i worked out the front seal was leaking. So pulled the engine down and replaced the seal but it was a little crooked but it took sooo long to get that seal in there it was a bastard i tell you, my mate was helping me and he kept saying just leave it like that it will seal fine but me being a perfectionist in the most anal of times i decided to remove it and try again because i did not want to go through that all again. When i removed it i heard a litting "ting" on the concrete in the garage and found a piece of my stock oil pump WTF!! the oil pump was cracked but still working and it damaged the seal! thats when i called you and hassled the shit out of you to organise someone to pass on the oil pump to me... thanks for that again it saved the day :) that rb25 oil pump had alot of limiter bashing and was about 250,000 km's old as it was the original pump on my car.

I never rev my rb30 over 7300rpm and ive used a very soft limiter ever since. Seems to be working fine in these conditions.

that was my old N1 pump, i was sooo paranoid about it after TM ruined 3 new engines in his R33 after he broke 3 N1 oil pumps... He was revving too 9500RPM but when they all broke,

Anthony that N1 pump was running in my engine without a crank collar too.

I ended up going all out buying a Tomei pump and collar etc.

Correct me if i am wrong but I THINK that when the gears gave way and siezed the engine must have had some torque behind it and kept spinning inside the pump and just shredded them away...

You can see there was a f load of heat inside there at one point :)

nice main bolts btw

More of a rhetorical question lol.

As for the N1 pumps old and new. I started noticing most failures about 2.5 years ago. Prior to that we could never fault them.

There was another RB30 I built around the same time for a guy after he blew the headgasket, due to tuner stupidity, detonated the shit out of his old engine and blew the head gasket through...38 deg timing at 6500rpm and 24psi boost seems to have that effect :dry:

Anyway, we pulled the pistons out for good measure to check them for damage and the rings were seized. So I convinced the guy to check his brand new N1 pump (1000km old)....had a crack through the inner gear. Engine never saw over 6800rpm

From then on I never used another N1 pump unless the customer absolutely refuses to buy anything else.

1000km at no higher than 6800rpm, collar fitted and ROSS balancer - gotta be something they are doing with cheap manufacture to have SO many fail so close and all around the same time.

Prior to that we only ever heard good things about the N1 pumps but were just starting to hear of a couple of failures here and there, never thought too much about it until 3 let go under non-extreme conditions. I'd say why take the gamble? If you have an N1 pump and it's old than 3 years, chances are it's gonna be fine. If you have bought one recently, I'd definitely stay away from it. Not worth the risk IMO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...