Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i have a S1 R33 For wrecking it is currently complete and running So if your interested in the motor sms or call me about it NOW!!!

so you cna see it and ill even take you for a drive to show that the motor is good

Rb25det 130xxx Runs great if you dont have chance to see

if before i rip it out i will take heaps of movies of it with time stamps $1700

Rb25det Auto box Same condition i took the car for a drive and it felt fine $300

Everything is in good nick on the car Was not in a crash or anything

i have shit load of parts but the car is all fatory except for the s2 side skirts and s2 boot

post-63394-0-31880300-1301614803_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-61691700-1301614813_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-82556100-1301614837_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-95279300-1301614829_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-66720300-1301614822_thumb.jpg

List of parts: ( off the top of my head )

Head lights S1 300

boot with s2 wing 50

Doors 70 EACH

Bonnet 140

Std cooler 50

Steering rack 50

Std turbo 290 Never ran over std boost Awsome nick

Front brakes 300 with hubs if needed

Rear brakes 270 comes tihe hub brake asembaly

Diff 170

Front seats 150 No marks rips or anthing like that

Rear seats 70 it doesnt look like they have much fade at all

Std suspention 150 no leaks/ knocks

s1 ecu (auto) 50

S1 Loom (auto) 70

Std skyline Wheels 250 No scartches on rims comes with road worth tyres about 60 -70 % on them dont know what brand

after market wheels 400 light scatches

Rear bar 85 no marks

Dash 90 no cracks or anthing like that

Lower controll arms 60 Each or 100 for both

Rad 60 no leaks and from what i saw no bent fins either

s1 Afm 50

Tails lights 80 the pair SUPER CHEAP just take em :)

its also got a Small cat back exsaust ill get photos up for you guys

Heaps of parts avalible Just Email pm or sms me

you can call but if its between 9-5 i prefer you just sms 0430106414 [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359431-r33-s1-white-130xxx-wrecking/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Is the drivers side A pillar plastic unmolested? if so how much?

climate control plug off the loom with as much wire attached as possible, how much?

Plates suggest your in vic, what suburb?

Left front headlight will u seperate?

no sorry selling as a pair only

are you in adelaide by anbychance mate ?

sorry im in s.e suburbs melb

hey bud if ur selling the power steering pump for an r33 gtst series 1. Send me a message of price and postage to 2176 sydney.

Sid

no sorry power steering pump is going with motor

Is the drivers side A pillar plastic unmolested? if so how much?

climate control plug off the loom with as much wire attached as possible, how much?

Plates suggest your in vic, what suburb?

Narre warren s.e suburbs

ill see what i can do on the climate controll plug but yes i do have a piller in good nick pick it up for 30 ucks

hey bud how much for the driver side power window control unit ?

cheers

30 bucks comes complete

Edited by Abe2

could you put up some more pics of the wheels? also what condition are the tyres in?

also what size and offset if you know.

Thanks

Edited by Dylaan

could you put up some more pics of the wheels? also what condition are the tyres in?

also what size and offset if you know.

Thanks

if you want more pics please sms me becouse i have no more photos on my phone.

im not sure what off set and i can have a look at how wide they are today ( im pulling them off )

condition isent to bad some small scatches on the 2 left wheels but thats about it

tyres now this is a funny one who ever put theses tyres on are not the smartes person is the world as the tyres are the wrong profiles 225/35/18 should be 225/40/18 if im not correct so i was planing of skining the wheels of there tyres ( or you can do what you want with them ( the do have about 70 on them though )

Hey mate . Would u sell both the Driver & passenger side front , lower & upper plastic inner guard liners ? Need them for my R33 Gts-t as it was in a accident & can't get new ones in Australia at the moment. Only from Japan & that could take months due to what is happening over there. Also if so , how much would u want for them ? Cheers Josh

Edited by Tweaky

i dont think the rear exhaust canon has a stamp on it and what series coil pack loom are you after

the exhaust is not greatly large from cat the tip is but all the rest of the piping is not passive does give a great note though and it does sound legal :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...