Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-55240-0-95335200-1301903157_thumb.jpgpost-55240-0-09930300-1301903323_thumb.jpgpost-55240-0-84745200-1301903390_thumb.jpgpost-55240-0-51031100-1301903517_thumb.jpgpost-55240-0-92723400-1301903628_thumb.jpgpost-55240-0-01712000-1301903688_thumb.jpgpost-55240-0-47841800-1301903824_thumb.jpg

Hi guys

Well the time has come to sell the second love of my life as i have married the first love of my life and are now looking at building a house (the things we do) but as a coupe is not a family car (the comprimise is a VE SS Wagon hahahaha) it has to be sold :(.

The car in question is a 96 s2 R33 GTS-t silver in colour i have owned it for the last two years and ive loved every minute of it, it treats me well and to date has never let me down. The body i would give a 7 out of 10 there are some minor marks, the engine is smooth and pulls strong throughout the rev range. The inteerior is in good nick with only some minor (normal) Skyline markings) eg/ tiny tear on driver seat. I service the car myself as i refuse to pay for it when i can do it, i use Motul Turbo light, and Castrol Gear and Diff oil.

Mods:

Engine.

Standard Turbo

Standard internals (as far as i know)

Exaust looks to be 3inch front pipe, 3inch cat, 4inch cat back to 5 inch cannon. it has exforce on the cannon but unsure if the whole system is exforce. This is Engineered

Nice size front mount with powder coated blue pipes 3inch (Engineer Cert)

Pod in box

new airflow metre

new feul filter

Yellow Jacket Coil packs

Iridium plugs .8mm

coolant was flushed 3 weeks ago by Natrad

Inteerior.

Red Gear/Handbrake Boots

Calibrea Apiller Boost Guage (Blue light)

HKS Turbo Timer

New Sony 2 way 220 watt speakers x4

Pioneer Head deck

Amp and sub box (sub was blown when i got it)

Window tint is getting done this week

Driveline.

Standard Gearbox

Heavy Duty clutch ( so i was told, it does not slip and grabs very well)

Standard Brakes machined a week ago

Lowered Springs on standard shocks ( rear shocks replaced a week ago)

Apec GTCs 18x8 Black

Body.

GTR Rear wing (Adjustable)

GTR Rear pods (who ever put them on did not fit properly but still look ok)

Veilside Skirts (minor marking)

400R Front bar with black mesh ( only painted 2 months ago)

paint is in good nick for it's age with only minor markings

i may have left some stuff out but it will come to mind later, if you need anymore info just ask i'm happy to answer, i also have afew bits and peices to go with it (white face dials. standard intercooler some others)

this is an awsome car and i really don't want to get rid of it, but such is life. This car turns heads where ever it goes and is an awsome start for someone wanting to build or for someone like me who just loves to drive it.

No joy riders please and test drives will only happen if i think you are genuine (insurance will not cover).

i'm asking $13000

Cheers guys

Cam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359782-fs-96-r33-gts-t-great-car/
Share on other sites

just an update

the car now has brand new window tint and also forgot to mention it has a HDI EBC currently running 10psi.

the car is located in Coffs Harbour but may be able to take it to Newcastle as i'm down there once or twice a month.

will take some more photos with new tint and put them up soon

Cam

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...