Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All parts are in good condition

bare head $800

Standard cams$150

Inlet manifold and triple trotal bodys $250

Cam Covers and front Cover missing valley middle cover $200

Standard injectors and rail $180

Standard coil packs as New condition $120

Exhaust manifolds standard $100

Standard turbos with steel wheels good condition $450

Twin turbo pipes everything to the intercooler inlet $100

Standard dump pipes $100

Y pipe not standard $100

Will Do the Whole Head everything for $1700 Pefect for 26/30 build

RWD 26 sump neat weld job $250

also have rb25 turbo gearbox in best condition not giving away as its a great box rebuilt etc. will sell with near new puck clutch for $1500 no less

Can Post located near the central coast

Contact me on 0411672105

here are some pics

also have a r32 gtr radiator fan and shruld $120

post-52687-0-38398400-1301984267_thumb.jpg

post-52687-0-44866200-1301984340_thumb.jpg

post-52687-0-67225500-1301984788_thumb.jpg

Edited by adam Foster

All parts are in good condition

bare head $800

Standard cams$150

Inlet manifold and triple trotal bodys $250

Cam Covers and front Cover missing valley middle cover $200

Standard injectors and rail $180

Standard coil packs as New condition $120

Exhaust manifolds standard $100

Standard turbos with steel wheels good condition $450

Twin turbo pipes everything to the intercooler inlet $100

Standard dump pipes $100

Y pipe not standard $100

Will Do the Whole Head everything for $1700 Pefect for 26/30 build

RWD 26 sump neat weld job $250

also have rb25 turbo gearbox in best condition not giving away as its a great box rebuilt etc. will sell with near new puck clutch for $1500 no less

Can Post located near the central coast

Contact me on 0411672105

Pics of head pls

What part of the head underneath or something im not a mechanic or to machanical so not sure whats important just had a mechanic tell me its in normal functioning condition

turbos are standard ones by the numbers but have steel wheels they are in good nic km are unknown but in good working order make an offer

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...