Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 3076R Running Temps

GunmetaL

By GunmetaL,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GunmetaL Enthusiast

GunmetaL

Posted
Posted

Hey all I have just purchased a an r34 sedan car has a 3076r with all supporting mods (fmic, inj, afm etc)

Also has a "heavy duty" radiator.....it has standard top tanks but core looks to be about 40 mm thick (standard is around 15mm)

when driving normaly the temp sit in the middle of the of the factory gauge (my other standard r34 sits in the same place)and the aftermarket gauge which is in the top radiator hose sits about 100 but when I drive it a little bit hard ie full boost a few times up to 100km or so it heats up to about 110 120t is this normal to have quite vast temp changes with such little hard driving or am I being paranoid?

Im only worried because my old silvia had a similar set up but ac was removed and had a thick koyo radiator temps never went above 90 on a 30 degree day no matter how hard I drove it

should I look at getting

transmission cooler

oil cooler

alloy radiator ?

any imput would be apprecated thanks Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359918-r34-3076r-running-temps/
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Transmission and oil cooler won't lower the water temperature...

100 seems rather high? My temp gauge sits at around 70-75 during everyday driving, doesn't make much difference what the outside temperature is. Gets maybe as high as 90 if I'm flogging it around. That's with a triple core alloy radiator though.

ltcree Contributor

ltcree

Posted
Posted

I've got a R33 with a 3076R and mine never gets that hot. It'll run around mid 80's to low 90's at the track on a 30+ degree day. All my cooling system is completly stock too. I would be looking at either the themostat, how far is it opening? The fan, not sure if 34's are still mechanical fans, but check your belt tension and fell how much air its blowing as the clutch on the fan may be not locking up. Biggest issue if it has a bigger rad is it using the cowling? If theres no cowling this can cause serious air flow issues and not draw enough air through the rad.

GunmetaL Enthusiast

GunmetaL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've got a R33 with a 3076R and mine never gets that hot. It'll run around mid 80's to low 90's at the track on a 30+ degree day. All my cooling system is completly stock too. I would be looking at either the themostat, how far is it opening? The fan, not sure if 34's are still mechanical fans, but check your belt tension and fell how much air its blowing as the clutch on the fan may be not locking up. Biggest issue if it has a bigger rad is it using the cowling? If theres no cowling this can cause serious air flow issues and not draw enough air through the rad.

So should I give one of these a go? http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16888&cat=&page=2

How do i tell if the fan is locking up I just had a look and it spins quite freely

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You guys over there have stolen the good weather so no surprise something like this is coming up :)

Forget thermostats mate. Stock is fine.

What you need to do first is get the radiator out, give it a good flush and a refill with distilled water and so on. I believe you can get them flow tested too so this would be a good idea.

Also the FMIC could not really be flowing much air and blocking which will also cause issues.

If giving it a solid flush and so on does not work, then you'll need to invest in a decent radiator. By saying the one you have now looks as if it has stock header tanks, then i'd be dubious of it being aftermarket.

A decent 40-45mm ally radiator from somewhere like Race Radiators (a melb mob, just as an example)... Will almost certainly fix the issues.

HOWEVER don't go for the fix immediately, best to know what is the issue first.

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Transmission and oil cooler won't lower the water temperature...

100 seems rather high? My temp gauge sits at around 70-75 during everyday driving, doesn't make much difference what the outside temperature is. Gets maybe as high as 90 if I'm flogging it around. That's with a triple core alloy radiator though.

Do you have a low-temp thermostat as well?

My experience with a stock R34 and brand new thermostat is that it sits pretty solid between 88C & 90C in most situations. The R34 thermostat doesn't open until 85C and fully open by 95C from what I recall.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

My 2c =

Put a new thermostat (OEM) and a factory radiator in it. Im confident this will fix the issue.

As Ash said, intercoolers can be a problem. I had an older model JJR core on a car of mine a few years back and had all world of trouble.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Do you have a low-temp thermostat as well?

My experience with a stock R34 and brand new thermostat is that it sits pretty solid between 88C & 90C in most situations. The R34 thermostat doesn't open until 85C and fully open by 95C from what I recall.

Stock Neo thermostats are 82deg

My 2c =

Put a new thermostat (OEM) and a factory radiator in it. Im confident this will fix the issue.

As Ash said, intercoolers can be a problem. I had an older model JJR core on a car of mine a few years back and had all world of trouble.

Ditto, as I've said in other threads, I had a cheapo china radiator and while it was nice and thick, it used to heatsoak horribly, tossed it in favour of a GTR radiator and had no more dramas.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Do you have a low-temp thermostat as well?

My experience with a stock R34 and brand new thermostat is that it sits pretty solid between 88C & 90C in most situations. The R34 thermostat doesn't open until 85C and fully open by 95C from what I recall.

It's stock as far as I know, I haven't put in anything aftermarket. Small chance that it has an aftermarket one in it from Japan but I wouldn't know for sure.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

Your thermostat could be stuck/blocked, replace this first (it's the cheapest and easiest)

check-temps again

Replace the radiator with something that slides right in.

While you are at it replace all the water hoses. yep..ALL of them.

Have a beer and never worry again about over heating.

Hottest I've seen my car is 88°C when driving in heavy traffic in 40° days(R33) but R34 will get a few degrees warmer.

Anything over 95° is too hot, ever.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Yeh 95 isn't that bad. With coolant and a properly pressurized system, you're no where near boiling point. I've seen my water temps hit 110 during a track day, have seen full on race cars reach as high as 160 degrees without damaging anything.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

Anything over 95° is too hot, ever.

No, it's not.

Maybe EVER was too strong a word. If you get above 95° simply by doing a few 0 -100 sprints then you have a problem and need to address it.

The R34 was designed as a slightly higher temp RB25 than the R32/R33 for efficiency.

Increasing the coolant temp ~10°C roughly doubles the pitting and deposit formation and therefore results in faster wear on water pump impellers, heater cores, dissimilar metals, etc. People may think high temps haven't damaged anything simply because nothing has broken immediately, but parts in the cooling system and gaskets get damaged.

Edited by simpletool
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Anything over 95° is too hot, ever.

Maybe EVER was too strong a word. If you get above 95° simply by doing a few 0 -100 sprints then you have a problem and need to address it.

The R34 was designed as a slightly higher temp RB25 than the R32/R33 for efficiency.

Increasing the coolant temp ~10°C roughly doubles the pitting and deposit formation and therefore results in faster wear on water pump impellers, heater cores, dissimilar metals, etc. People may think high temps haven't damaged anything simply because nothing has broken immediately, but parts in the cooling system and gaskets get damaged.

Isn't it every 10 degrees over the maximum coolant operating temperature halves the engine life expectancy? Not sure what that maximum temperature is on an R34, but it would surely be much higher than standard water boiling point.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Anything over 95° is too hot, ever.

Maybe EVER was too strong a word. If you get above 95° simply by doing a few 0 -100 sprints then you have a problem and need to address it.

The R34 was designed as a slightly higher temp RB25 than the R32/R33 for efficiency.

Increasing the coolant temp ~10°C roughly doubles the pitting and deposit formation and therefore results in faster wear on water pump impellers, heater cores, dissimilar metals, etc. People may think high temps haven't damaged anything simply because nothing has broken immediately, but parts in the cooling system and gaskets get damaged.

Do you have evidence to back up your scaremongering?

I agree that if you're reaching 95deg after a couple of hard jaunts up to 100kmh there is an issue that likely needs to be addressed.

Telling people that reaching 95deg is OMG GOING TO REDUCE THE LIFE OF EVERYTHING THE COOLANT TOUCHES, is scaremongering.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hendasto
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By Hendasto · Posted

      Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • Hendasto
      Are RBs worth building reliability wise

      By Hendasto · Posted

      At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • MBS206
      New kid on the block

      By MBS206 · Posted

      https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...