Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as the title states my catchcan vent blocked and the 32 started spewing white smoke... I get about 2 psi of boost and I'm wondering if the pressure has blown out my turbo seal...? If anyone could shed some light on this for me so I know where I'm at I'd be very appreciative.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359985-blocked-catchcan-vent-killed-my-32/
Share on other sites

???

How could a blocked catch can put pressure on the turbo's bearings?

The white smoke would be oil spewing back into the intake from the catch can... There's no way the bearings would "blow" from this...

???

How could a blocked catch can put pressure on the turbo's bearings?

The white smoke would be oil spewing back into the intake from the catch can... There's no way the bearings would "blow" from this...

Not entirely true.

Increased pressure in the crankcase will prevent oil returning from the turbo. However it is more likely you will see the smoke as a result of it in your intake first.

The can wasn't plumbed back into the intake... also I noticed, under the bonnet, oil dripping on my plastic sump guard from the turbz area... I hav'nt looked at anything yet but was also wondering if this would've done something to the engine? only drove a few hundred meters when I noticed the smoke

Have seen first hand what excessive crank case pressure can do to turbos, which is what you would have had with blocked breathers...as was mentioned above, oil in the turbo cant return to the sump and builds in the turbo core, it then pushes past the exhaust seal, in my case, the exhaust seal was shagged or had moved according to turbo builder and I had sh1t loads of white smoke, like you...

have you fixed the catch can?

take the dump pipe off the turbo and see if there is an evident oil leak from the seal. and same on the front, if you cant see any oil there, put the intake back onto the front and start the car to see if smoke starts pouring from the turbo exhaust, if it does turn the car off and see if you can see oil in the exhaust of the turbo.

let us know how you go

Yep, exhaust wheel will look 'wet' and you probably wont see this until the turbos off but oil will be weeping down the bottom of the front side of the exhaust housing, let us know how you go...mine wasn't caused by blocked breathers but excessive piston to bore clearance...same result - excessive crankcase pressure and a turbo that couldn't drain..

Edited by NSNPWR
  • 3 months later...

Well... new turbo ( already had ) and all exhaust and ceramic coating etc and still getting slight smoke out back from oil... maybe valve seals blown out..?? any help would be appreciated, dying here... pinch.gif

yeah I had some smoke after installing new turbo and ceramic coated dump etc went away after a few heat cycles, I assumed it was just burning off shit from new turbo and new coatings..

another time needed to put a restrictor in the oil feed of the turbo, because with Jun pump was pumping too much oil and pushing past the seal, hence blowing white smoke..

hopefully just one of those reasons for you :thumbsup:

???

How could a blocked catch can put pressure on the turbo's bearings?

The white smoke would be oil spewing back into the intake from the catch can... There's no way the bearings would "blow" from this...

If you seal the crank case gases in it will pressurise and can burn lots of oil, I've seen it happen before. Don't see how it would do anything to the turbo though.

I found oil in the mouth of the compressor side when I was putting a boost controller in and had to remove stuff to get to the actuator... hoping its from it sitting around for so long..?? stretching maybe but dont want to think I have to pull it all off again... also I have taken it for a couple runs before that and it was showing white at the end of the runs and a hint of blue due to not being mapped..

Edited by partyboy73

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...