Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I NEED HELP!!

I have a 1990 R32 GTS-T and something is wrong with it and I cant work it out...

I've only had the car for about a month now and it was running beautifully when I first got it but then all of a sudden a problem has developed with the boost...when I first got it boost would come on at about 4000rpm on full throttle, but now when it hits approx 10psi the car splutters violently and just bunny hops and does nothing but if I keep my foot down long enough then the boost finally kicks in. (For some reason everything works the way its meant to in first gear, sometimes...) Also if I just drive normally not making boost the car drives fine. and it is using an insane amount off fuel as i'm only getting about 200kms to a tank and it puffs black smoke out the exhaust when I try and hit boost.

Ever since this started happening I replaced several parts trying to fix it including;

- BOV

- FPR

- Coil packs

I was thinking of replacing the Wastegate next..

I've inspected all hoses and lines and they all seem fine, also inspected the spark plugs and are all good.

I'm stumped to what might be causing this problem...any ideas?? ermm.gif

P.S. The car has a Hypergear ATR43 turbo and is tuned to 15psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360109-helppp/
Share on other sites

Try lowering your spark plug gap if it already isnt , should be running bcpr7es at 0.8, also did this probelm start out of nowhere or wasnt when turbo got put on at and boosted to 15psi dont know if r32 ecus are like r33 stock ones and hit r and r when boosting over 10-11 and if all this isnt the problem maybe check your coil pack harness and regards to fuel if it isnt tuned with a ecu or if it is tuned then its a poor tune to be getting economy like that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360109-helppp/#findComment-5749710
Share on other sites

Try lowering your spark plug gap if it already isnt , should be running bcpr7es at 0.8, also did this probelm start out of nowhere or wasnt when turbo got put on at and boosted to 15psi dont know if r32 ecus are like r33 stock ones and hit r and r when boosting over 10-11 and if all this isnt the problem maybe check your coil pack harness and regards to fuel if it isnt tuned with a ecu or if it is tuned then its a poor tune to be getting economy like that.

We checked the gap when we inspected the plugs, its at that...and technically speaking it only started once I took it to an aircon place to get a hose replaced for the aircon, then once i got it back it started doing this. I took it back to them complained and asked what they took off to do the job and check them in particular and it all seemed fine...the harness as brand new, no cracks or splits...and i have a nistune ecu installed, i was getting close to 600kms to a tanks when i first got it and no there are no leaks, i have replaced the fuel filter and am running a Bosch 040 fuel pump

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360109-helppp/#findComment-5749723
Share on other sites

Check the voltage on the AFM when you are boosting. If it exceeds 4.9V you may be hitting factory boost cut

...edit.... and when I say boost cut I mean ignition cut relative to boost/air flow etc

I will check that when I get a chance next

As well this car was in with you guys not too long before I purchased it, and reading through the receipts it had some kind of misfiring issue. Is it possible this issue could have arisen again?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360109-helppp/#findComment-5751454
Share on other sites

If it's idling high, check for vacuum leaks after the throttle body, INCLUSIVE OF THE AAC/IAC. It might be faulty/thrown out. Only way idle can go up is for there to be more air getting in, so if the throttle plate is still closing then you have a leak somewhere behind that.

EDIT: could also potentially explain the lag with boost and then R&R - if boost is leaking out of the manifold after the throttle body, then for the manifold pressure to get to 10psi there would be MUCH more airflow through the AFM to overcome the leak.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360109-helppp/#findComment-5751475
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...