Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday all, i just have a question. My mate and i both have 180sx and both have RB20's in them. Mods wise they are very similar in that there isn't really any. But when we are travelling at similar speeds are revs are very different. E.g when im doing 100km/h my car reads out that im doing 4500rpm while my mate at the exact same speed is only doing 3500rpm and they are both in 5th gear. Could anyone tell me the possible reasons for the difference in revs and could this be a problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36017-whats-the-reason-for-the-difference/
Share on other sites

im sure he knows what engine he has :D

they both got swapped for rb20's by the sounds of it. Sorry i cant help ya mate

yeah youd think so, but he said he and his friend have no mods.

why would you go through the effort of swapping the SR20 for the RB20 anyway? If you were going to swap to an RB you would at least go for the RB25.

Just to check that the tacho isn't wrong (as 1000rpm seems like a huge amount more for a 4.3 diff over a 4.1 one), do the engines sound the same when they cruise at that speed? I mean does your one actually sound like it's doing 1000rpm more than his? Since yours is slower, it does sound like your diff isn't some super high ratio one.

Im not the most knowledgeable when it comes to the mechanical side of cars, but can someone please explain what the difference is with the diff ratio and how it effects the car. Is it related to the gear ratio. Im sorry if this is a dumb question but i don't really know. Tah

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...