Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interesting comments 4DoorGTR. Thing is, I am not interested in incriminations or the like, nor do I want to discredit any given forum. As you would have noticed, I did not in fact mention a forum name whatsoever. What I did say was "a friendly forum that is in fact open to genuine comment..."

I stated this because due to whatever pressures from within, I am not allowed to post on the forum you mentioned. That's right, I am not allowed, full stop. As to offering sponsorship to that forum, the bottom line 4DoorGTR is there has been a lot going on behind the scenes, much more that you will ever know. But as already stated, I am not interested in slandering the good name of what is a great forum.

What is happening on that forum is a particular sponsor literally dominates proceedings and goes to great lengths to shoot down any comment made by opposition sponsors or those members running opposition products. Of course I would love to be the position of being able to offer my opinion, but as stated, I can’t.

As to having a chip on my shoulder, in the first instance this may appear to be the case, certainly with how you have described things. To the contrary, no names were mentioned in my post, and once again as already stated, I can’t reply on that forum.

Rev210. We have, for example, a customer car whereby it was equipped with a Stage 2 kit and absolutely nothing else (no exhaust mods, no fuel pump changes, nothing) that has run a 12.6 @ almost 114 mph – with stock suspension, stock factory fitted tyres and a tool kit in the tray.

Meril.

Once again, without casting aspersions, please let me reply to your good point as follows: “With their off-the-shelf Stage 3 kit, slicks, and a modified auto box, they're running 10s...”

The following is absolute fact and can be verified. The car in question is not running an off-the-shelf APS Stage 3, it runs in excess of 18-19 psi boost, is juiced (fuel) and utilises a second form of forced induction to assist it achieve the times it has so far.

If we go back several months, Nizpro was the first in this country to run an 11 second pass (an 11.7 @ 126mph), with the data logger showing that it was on the rev limiter in 3rd gear (auto) at the 1000ft mark. With the power the engine was making in an otherwise completely stock vehicle, it should have run 132mph (if it didn’t run out of revs) with an equally impressive ET of around a 10.8. Unfortunately at that point Nizpro was simply eons away from sorting the auto which was incredibly slow to chance change gears hence a relatively slow ET.

It is extremely difficult competing against a company that is as well funded as APS in that they can fast track enhanced products for demonstration purposes. We can’t…unfortunately. We simply have to plod along offering kits that deliver the goods in the real world. But hey, we have no qualms with anyone wanting to run faster times over the quarter, it’s great for everyone!

As to the performance of the opposition Phase 2 product, I wonder if you would like to ponder the following suggestion: Assuming you know a little about drag racing, that at the end of the day in a street car you will never achieve the optimum ET (tyres, road suspension et cetera), hence what is extremely important at least as far as establishing exactly what power an engine is producing, is the MPH it achieves.

This being the case, if you were to take the Motor Magazine road test that stated the Phase 2 car achieved 190km/h at the drags, (119mph), then you had a look at all of the customer Phase 2 cars that when taken to the drags can only ever achieve a best of 108mph, you have to start to wonder how the original 119mph was achieved. Was this really the same kit that people are buying? I will leave you to work it out.

Cuspub,

I do not know why you are posting here as you are well known on the www.fordxr6turbo.com forum and you have a well respected product for us xr6t owners.  I do not understand why you say that  

 

QUOTE "I don't want this to sound like blatant advertising, rather as I am unable to post on the xr6 forum, I guess I am hoping to find a friendly forum that is in fact open to genuine comment, not contrived statements by a forum sponsor that are designed to try and discredit anyone who dare to have a differing opinion. "

 

There are many people who use and recommend your product on www.fordxr6turbo.com

May be if you donate money or sponsor the site you might get a bit more respect instead of trying to trawl forums for free advertising and getting shitty as soon as someone does not agree with you.  You are in business and you should put your money where your mouth is.  It seems to me you have a chip on your shoulder, may be APS have a better product and you cannot handle the reality.  

 

 

Clint32: Ford will void your warranty if you fart too close to the car.  Depending on the service manager, they will not even let you change the airfilter, coldair scoop or piggyback.  The biggest problem with the XR6T is the gearbox, they cannot handle more than about 330fwkw (stage2 updrade) so Ford are rejecting many gearbox claims if they find a piggyback cpu, or evidence of one being installed and removed.

I see.

So now we've reduced ourselves to calling APS and C&V Performance liars.

"The car in question is not running an off-the-shelf APS Stage 3, it runs in excess of 18-19 psi boost, is juiced (fuel) and utilises a second form of forced induction"

Well I don't count different fuel or more boost a step away from an off-the-shelf kit. Do you have any proof to backup your claim that the APS/C&V XR6T was running Nitrous? Please tell me you do, as making wild claims like that without any backup is a very dangerous thing to do for your credibility.

And your extrapolation of figures to claim a 10.8 @ 132mph from a 11.7 @ 126mph car is hilarious. Why bother develop and work with our cars? I'll just say "Oh... with the correct gearbox, and 600hp worth of direct port nitrous, my 11.7 @ 126mph should REALLY have been a 7.4 @ 172mph!!!!

Quick.... Out of my way, I'm off to go buy the Nizpro Stage 3 kit!!!!

Second form of forced induction....isn't he referring to a supercharger?

I've seen and taken detailed photos of the APS/C&V XR6T engine bay (the day it ran it's 10 second pass) and there is no supercharger there, so the only other option is that cuspub is claiming that they're running nitrous (which is more easily hidden).

Meril. Thanks for your reply; it’s good to see you’re passionate about the BA.

In deed, that you have a penchant for stirring the pot, I’ll bite. But hey, why the agro, not necessary!

As you are obviously quite intelligent and well read, you would of course understand that when a data logger indicates the rate at which a vehicle is covering ground, that once the engine hits the rev limiter and is therefore unable to continue gaining speed, that it is easy to extrapolate what the potential would have been.

Clicking 4th in the factory ‘box would have simply resulted in a meltdown, hence it was not selected, rather the driver feathered the throttle to the finish line. As you are also well aware, extrapolating mph to ET is the normal thing one does in drag racing – that is assuming you have been involved in all levels of drag racing for the past 30 years as I have and know this – and even with the 126mph terminal, the theoretical but almost totally unlikely in a road car, is a 10.823. But let’s not grasp at straws here.

“Well I don't count different fuel or more boost a step away from an off-the-shelf kit. Do you have any proof to backup your claim that the APS/C&V XR6T was running Nitrous? Please tell me you do, as making wild claims like that without any backup is a very dangerous thing to do for your credibility.”

An off-the-shelf kit is not boosted over a specific figure, and the ECU is not tuned to run C16 and high boost. The second and third sentences: The answer is I do. But frankly, to appease you by explaining it on here, not!

Oh, for the record, if for the sake of extrapolation you want to use a theoretical such as 7.4 @ 172mph, perhaps you should in fact use an equation that is correct: a 7.4 @ 183mph. Best being 100% accurate don’t you think!

Hi guys, 1.8 tonnes, makes them slow, handle like a truck, not stop and causes things to break. I don't reckon the gearboxes break from power, they fail from having to carry that lard arse around. I won't even bother getting into handling and brakes, they feel like Toyota Cruiser with a lower centre of gravity. Criky even the shocks overheat after 20 minutes of hard stuff , let alone the engine.

Bottom line, when you guys have a kit that takes out 600 kgs, then I might be interested

As for warranty, I have terrible trouble understanding how they knock back a warranty claim on the CD player because the car had an aftermarket airfilter. But it happened, I have the warranty claim number for when it goes to Fair Trading arbitration. Should be interesting, might even go along and watch.

I wasn't going to say anything about ET and TS but I just have to, can't resist it. Please bear with me....

There is no possible way you can extrapolate ET to TS or vice versa, it's a load of BS.

Think about this,

1. I run my car with 17" wheels and do an 11 at 115 mph and it hits the RPM limit over the line

2. I run the same car with 15" wheels and do an 11 at 105 mph because it hits the RPM limit 50 metres before the line.

I have actually done it more than once. Almost exactly the same ET but different TS by 10 mph. How can it do the same time? Well it accelerates faster with the lower gearing (smaller diameter tyres) but runs out of RPM before the end of the 1/4, so doesn't do a faster time.

You want more proof, take a look at the ET's and TS of a range of cars from the next meeting. I will bet you have more than 1 second and 10 mph differences all over the place.

And another urban myth bites the dust!!!

I understand that translating terminal speeds into ETs is quite a hobby for some people, myself doing it for my car when I couldn't put the power down off the line... But doing it as a marketing ploy and even SAYING those figures when you've never done them is just not right.

I don't care whether you were at the rev limit in 3rd gear 50m before the line... and coasted over for an 11.7 @ 126mph. That's a great time and it's only reduced to bullshit and you lose a lot of credibility when you try and say things like "oh with the right gearing that would have been a 10.8 @ 132mph"

P.S. you didn't bite to my response quite as hard as I had hoped :) Well done :D

I am still interested in what proof you have of the APS/C&V car running nitrous though... In all seriousness, that's quite a big claim and you have to be able to back it up for us....

As for warranty, I have terrible trouble understanding how they knock back a warranty claim on the CD player because the car had an aftermarket airfilter.  But it happened, I have the warranty claim number for when it goes to Fair Trading arbitration.  Should be interesting, might even go along and watch.

This company also decided that playing back CDR discs also voids the warranty on the CD player so... anything is possible with Australian cars.

T.

Hmmm. I didn't expect to see a thread about this on here!

I agree that a car runs what it runs & thats it.

I think the XR6 Turbos are great (if you need a family car or a ute)

They are good value, look excellent & come in top colours.

I always intended to lightly modify my ute, but did not want to go too

far as it is my daily driver & tow vehicle. I visited Greg & Simon from Nizpro

& I was very impressed with their kits & R&D they had done.

My biggest problem with the std XR6T was the lack of bottom end torque & the

poor throttle response. I decided on the Cobra stage II kit for my ute & after

fitting it & seeing the difference it made, I know I made the right decision.

In fact, I was so impressed, I have since then (along with Mark Tilbrook) taken

on the SA dealership for these Cobra kits.

We have already sold 2 other stage II kits (one which has been fitted BY A FORD DEALER -

who love the product & are fully behind us warranty wise)& both these guys love their

new skid machines.

My tow ute (which has no other mods inc std exhaust & cat) has run a 12.63 @ 113.6 mph

on std rubber & is completey docile to drive everyday. It has a genuine 350kw.

Pity they are so bloody heavy. And forget about handling.Buts that what you get with our local cars - a good compromise for the masses.

That why I love Skylines. No compromise. Only the best handling, braking,interiors etc will do. Not to mention tuning potential - the sky is the limit.(probably why they called them Skylines.) XR6Turbos are good - but Skylines RULE the streets.

(Greg) cuspub,

I think you are doing yourself and brand more harm than good by making some really dumb and immature statements on this forum.

I do not think many Skyliners really give 2 craps about the differences between kits for Fords.

I have not read any replies that bag out your upgrades (on any forum), most think they are great (myself included) but yet you choose to keep going on and making big claims about 1/4 mile times (which may or not be true) yet you have not given us any proof about the APS not being above board in their claims.

Either prove it or shut the Fcuk up about it.

You have also chosen to continue to say you are better because of 1/4 mile times, yet VERY few of us people who are planning upgrades will ever see a dragstrip. There is more to upgrading your car than seeing who can do a faster time on the strip.

I guess that if you are doing a great job for sluring your good product by persisting in this pointless personal opinonated attack on the FordXR6Turbo forum and other 3rd party tuners.

I would be investing some time and money into repairing your relationship with the Ford XR community instead of ruining it with the Skyline owners.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...