Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Write an official letter to the manager or whomever is in charge and send it via registered post that they have to sign. Clearly state in a very proffesional manner what happened including time, location etc. Every detail you can basically. Also mention the witness. Let him know that you require a response within 7 working days and that you want to sort this matter otherwise you will be forced to take it to consumer affairs.

Be as proffesional as you can be. If you sound like some one that is angry they wont take it seriously. If you sound like some one that can present them self well you will get a response.

Good luck.

How can they send some one out to start un-plugging things they nothing about??

Thats like me doing the wiring in a friends house or hooking up a new gas appliance then it all going tits up and me saying oh well you should of got some one who knows what they are doing sorry.

Clearly in his own words he aint a mechanic so then why is he acting as one messing with cars??...

The inspector does admit disconnecting but says he's unable to help as he's not a mechanic.

Call fair trading if the guy can't produce a mechanics qualification then it should be pretty much an open and shut case

I can't belive this happened

Call fair trading if the guy can't produce a mechanics qualification then it should be pretty much an open and shut case

I can't belive this happened

Definitely call fair trading, and the free legal hotlines (cant remember what they're called atm).

Also post up some pics so we can see what's been undone. Someone on here may be able to help identify what has happened.

The inspector does admit disconnecting but says he's unable to help as he's not a mechanic. What really bothered me was that he left the car after he couldn't get it running again (said its not his fault)...

Judge Judy would have a field day with this. Our legals should be no less lenient!

How can State-roads hire a monkey and then dress him up as a mechanic? > Grenade with a loose pin!

I know that you want to take him / them to court...

But check your main fuses dude... It may be 20 bucks to fix the car versus 2 grand in fort costs :P

That's actually a really sensible suggestion...

Yeah sounds good and hopefully works...

But i would still be getting in touch with trading std's or the onbudsman about the fact that a un-qualified mechanic works there and is going messing with peoples cars/possibly lifes...

How does someone whos not a mechanic carry out a mechanical inspection?

Which means that before State Roads, RACQ, NRMA, RACV yaddayadda ever touches your car, you need to demand that he show you his ticket? :whistling:

That sucks man but I've used state roads several times as a buyer and I can't overstate what a good job they did. I would have purchased some absolute lemons if it wasn't for them.

I guess each company will always have an instance of bad customer service.

Edited by ras1983

Yes...too sensible if you ask me :ph34r:

I'm concerned, Birds.

I anticipate an attack is imminent. We must fortify our avatars with pictures of naked women covered in Skittles to distract him. Also, if he works in a strict office workplace environment he could possibly lose his job for having such content pop up, thus cutting off his financing... unless the sith have been funding his operation.

In which case, I think we should call the ghostbusters... or that guy in the motorbike who's being reallyreally loud outside and i'm waiting for "REEERRRR REEEER REEERRRR *THUD*"

Okay I'm getting delirious... good night :D

Furthermore; best car inspector I've had looked at the car, laughed, begged me not to make him inspect it, took his money and left.

Apparently that's the technical way of saying "it's shit".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...