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hi guys...2 weeks ago i had a autobox in my cefiro and all run fine...now i got a rb20 manual in there and changed to a r32 ecu(thinking of buying a nistune chip^^)

the car runs really good, like always, idle is fine too when cold and warm...problem is if i drive down the road and try to stop i gotta clutch in lol

everytime i clutch in when downshifting or stopping the engine die >_<>_<>_<

sometimes the rev's drop to about 200-300rpms and then go up to the normal idle of about 600rpms but mostly when i kick the clutch in rev's drop just to zero and engine is dead!:glare:

the car is 100% stock, i got the aftermarked bov out, checked for leaks in the intercooler piping but nothing, idlevalve is cleaned too...

i'm going nuts, so pls community help me out :worship:

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problem is if i drive down the road and try to stop i gotta clutch in lol

Yeah manual is a bit different to auto...takes some getting used to :P

Does it do this after being on boost / off boost / both.

I'd say adjust the TPS unless it's boost related.

hmm i got no air/fuel gauge:(

and i got nothing to adjust too, i can buy nistune when the car is perfect^^...don't wanna buy now and then wait 2 months for money to get the car repaired >_<

Yeah manual is a bit different to auto...takes some getting used to :P

lol it's not the first time i drive a manual,...thats not the problem^^

Does it do this after being on boost / off boost / both.

I'd say adjust the TPS unless it's boost related.

it's not just on boost, sometimes i drive 2000rpm and it dies...

i realize it dies everytime when i drive constant the same rpm a few minutes long and then stop...

btw with boost i got no issus,...it boosts great like always

nope no smoke,...but i think it could run a lil bit rich? maybe normal but i think it smells too much like gasoline out of the exhaust^^

gotta try to find a air/fuel gauge...btw does it has to be a expensive aem or does the cheap ones work too?

watertemp sensor is fine, the one for on the dash is find, but the another one for ecu i don't know how to check?

nope no smoke,...but i think it could run a lil bit rich? maybe normal but i think it smells too much like gasoline out of the exhaust^^

gotta try to find a air/fuel gauge...btw does it has to be a expensive aem or does the cheap ones work too?

watertemp sensor is fine, the one for on the dash is find, but the another one for ecu i don't know how to check?

i love the way the emission fumes smell from Rb's really rich call me crazy lol

But the AEM's are good brand

Good Luck

I would say unless youre planning to go really into the drag and drifting the regular gauges will work fine

I have some regular gauges and they do the job ,been 2 years and no problems

They work well for my everday usage

As for yur problems as nic mentioned try another MAF and look into the mixture

Good Luck

i wanna really drift and use daily,...ok 200usd for these:(

but ok i won't need to buy these 5times a year:D

just ordered one @ aem

btw does it has to be a maf from a cefiro or a random r32 rb20det maf will be good too...

Not sure about the different MAF my advise is take the care where you would be buying it and try it to see if it works

I know some of the skyline MAF's work as they are skyline engines

As for the gauges youre good to go some years on that

If the AFM label is Purple and marked N60...it can be interchanged with Z32 300ZX [N/A only], J30 Maxima, or pretty much any Nissan with a VG30xx engine.

If its label is green, marked J60, it is interchangeable with R32 GTS-T RB20DET

If its not either of those colors let me know...but it should be one of the two, if it's not you got a problem.

i just borrow'd the maf from a friends friend and tested,...the same problem...>_<>_<>_<

now was thinking what i wouldn't need here and saw the cold start valve, here in thailand you won't get under 10degrees except you're on highest mountain here so got that piece of shit out and here we goooooo ideling alot better now :worship:

that f**king thing had a lil crack on it,...

i'm still waiting for the aem uego air/fuel gauge but i see a bit difference between the a31 auto ecu and the r32 manual ecu:

a31 stock ecu:

-idle is a tiny lil bit better

-but i waste a damn lot of gasoline!!! nearly 4 times more than the r32!:pwned:

donno but i think it's running hardcore rich to use that amount of gasoline...i had this one from beginning and car was drinking more fuel than i'm drinking beer in a month:D

-stock rpm gauge won't work with this one,...donno why?

r32:

-rpm gauge works surprisingly (i never touched the wireing!?)

-idle is a lil bit worser than the a31 but still driveable, not that bad...

-fuel economy is reasonable,...very good with that ecu...

from what i've read there shouldn't be a difference...abit confusing :closedeyes:

i had this problem.. give it some stick or even just drive through the gears. clutch it to roll to a stop and it would die.

Cas - advance it just a tad

Vacuum leak - check all lines

Throttle body. give it a good clean and make sure its adjusted properly

  • 2 years later...

I had the same problem on my car when I first got it, it is most likely a vacuum leak.

check and clean your IVAC and ACC also it should be a part of your maintenance anyway

And the simplest way to check for your leak is just to use carb cleaner and listen for a idle change to check for your leak.

Here is a video of what I mean: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok

remember our cars are pretty old at this point so the hoses are just getting old so you might have the smallest crack in your lines so move them around to expose anything and check if they are getting hard.

This might help you out too : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/174735-fixing-idlestarting-problems-rb25det-cleaning-air-regulator-easy-way/?hl=%2Bclean+%2Byour+%2Bacc

I have a 25 but search around if it is different on your 20

good luck and i hope everything works out!

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