Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people im selling my 1995 r33 gtst series 1.5 owned it for almost 2 years i recon itd be. may be interested in swaps but more keen on cash, eitherway throw it at me, worst ill say is no :)

car: r33 gtst series 1.5

year : 1995

klms: 142xxx

price: $9.500

location: Adelaide

the car is pretty stock id say , but anyway only mods are :

-apexi pod filter

-front mount intercooler

- lowered on king springs with new kyb rear shocks.

not a mod but (car has factory sun roof)

note: car does not come with the bbs meshies, it now comes with gold 18" drifteks on it., only bad point to the car really is the clutch has a little squeek to it, the car may also some with a m sports bodykit (unpainted) if i get a alright price for car

TXT josh(me) on 0430012347 for more info if you interested :) or just for some pics with the driteks on it,

pics will be up as soon as i get some time to do it.. but as of now txt me for some

please no more joy riders / test pilots . thank you :)

post-72586-0-38871700-1302592564_thumb.jpg

post-72586-0-60416200-1302592570_thumb.jpg

post-72586-0-90141300-1302592576_thumb.jpg

post-72586-0-26398200-1302592583_thumb.jpg

post-72586-0-46854500-1302592593_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360666-r33-gtst-15/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...