Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im planning to do an engine coversion, R33 rb26dett engine with rb25det gear box into a s14 200sx.

Im planning to do the conversion myself, is there anything you guys think i should know?

Has anyone done this conversion?

Which engine cross member could i use or do i have to get it fabricated?

And also same question as above for the gear box cross member?

Does the gear box bolt straight up?

Thank for the help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/
Share on other sites

Hi Sooky, try the Silvia forums, this stuff is done and talked about all the time there.

From what I have seen you use a Cefiro front cross member as they are a Slivia platform that came standard with an RB20. So the cross member is designed to fit a RB into that chassis. The SR20 gearbox doesn't bolt up and it wouldn't handle the torque anyway. The conversions I have seen use an RB25DET (as in R33 GTST) gearbox with a spacer to bolt up the standard rear (gearbox) cross member.

Hope that points you in the right direction.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/#findComment-721260
Share on other sites

thanks for the replys,

so i can use the rb25 gearbox mount with rb25 gearbox cool.

then seems the only major part to get fabricated will be the driveshaft

http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/sale.php

this is one of the company in the US. thta had made a motor month kit for the car. i am unsure if this would work for you. but it has customdrive shaft to fit and everything.

do you guys have a KA engine or a ca18 or sr20??

cause we used the crossmember for the KA engine with the swap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/#findComment-721878
Share on other sites

I am going to be swapping in a Rb25DET into my S14 and McKinney seems to be the only one right now who has a RB26 mount kit. Their kit lets you keep both turbos.  

Get the driveshaft custom made at a local shop. The KA X-member should be fine if you get their mounts.

there are a few other. i am waiting to hear about then before i think about using them if i do a similar swap.

now i am wondering if austria ues a KA similar cross member if they aren't. then this kit would be useless.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/#findComment-721947
Share on other sites

R32 crossmember

Modify the gearbox crossmember

Modify the tunnel to fit the g/box as it is much chunkier than the SR box

modified tailshaft

plus some more little things once you actually get it in there.

I hope you know what you are doing when it comes to cars and have alot of $$$ & time if you want to do it properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/#findComment-724617
Share on other sites

Hi guys, I have no idea why people do this conversion. By the time you stick an RB into an S14 instead of the SR20DET it weighs more than an R32 GTST. I have weighed a couple and they came in over 1350 kgs, our R32 GTST with an RB31DET weighs 1245 kgs. Even an S13 is really not worth the effort.

In the US where they don't have SR20DET's I can understand it, but in Oz and NZ it baffles me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/#findComment-725340
Share on other sites

Its called someone who wants copious amounts of power.. think about it, you go and spend your $30k on a bullet proof SR20DET, effectively your pushing it pretty hard to make 400rwkw and i dont care who has tuned it, you still have a time bomb on your hands. first car that coes to mind is DVLISH..... It either blows up or its only a matter of time before it get tired and needs a rebuild....

so instead you throw your $30k at an RB26 build and effectively have the pottential for 330rwkw with bolt ons...... ad some forgies, a nice set of rods and should have closer to 400rwkw. Take it to the next step and the possibilities are endless.

Now before you go telling me that the power as to be gotten to the ground, yes i already know this. Anyone that has been crazy enough to throw $25k at an RB26 S14 is not silly enough to leave standard suspension or the standard braking system..... its going to take some time and effort to sort it out but its time and effort that gets people the numbers in the end.

As for weight....i think the extra 100kgs will benefit the car in the long run anyway. According to the weigh bridge, my S14a weighed in at 1260 with half a tank of fuel and a stereo when the SR was fitted. Most of the weight added is in the gearbox anyway and its more central than front heavy. Doing these things right takes time, and time i have so its going to be quite interesting to see how she goes when back on the road.

can i ask how many RB26 S14's you have weighed Sydneykid??? as i know of no other S14 with an RB so far and am interested to see who else has done this conversion

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/#findComment-725786
Share on other sites

Hi guys, I have no idea why people do this conversion.  By the time you stick an RB into an S14 instead of the SR20DET it weighs more than an R32 GTST.  I have weighed a couple and they came in over 1350 kgs, our R32 GTST with an RB31DET weighs 1245 kgs.  Even an S13 is really not worth the effort.

In the US where they don't have SR20DET's I can understand it, but in Oz and NZ it baffles me.

Because Sr's are crap :rofl:

PHaT MR30, pics of your conversion please.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/#findComment-726734
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...