Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yesterday I bought a 1994 GTS25 for $NZ3950.

It's in good condition apart from a few small things, such as broken ashtray, missing spring for gas tank door (two people are needed to open it) the paint on the bonnet is cracked, etc.

It's also done 295,000k, which is why it was so cheap, but it runs well and I have a 1 year warranty on it. :)

I have a few questions about the car that I was wondering if you could answer:

1. When I turn my key onto ON, there's a clicking from in the dashboard, it doesn't stop until I start the car. What is that noise?

2. My power antenna doesn't go down when I pop the boot, my Prelude's one did, should the Skyline's one do it too?

3. The splash guard in the right front wheel well is missing, which would let water get thrown on the back of the indicator, is this a problem? Would the indicator be water tight?

4. The little antenna on the front left of the bumper that helps you park doesn't come up. Is this the switch by the power and snow button? Are they known for dieing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36111-just-got-a-gts25-few-questions/
Share on other sites

:) I knew the kilometers were up there, but the rest of the car is in good shape, the Japanese owner actually serviced it 3 times in the 3 years he owned it, and since it came to NZ in 1997, I think it's had only one owner, who serviced it regularly. (well I think so, the air filter was clean, as was power steering fluid)

I have a one year warranty, so if the engine dies, I'll get a new engine for free, otherwise I'll have to pay for a rebuild in 2 or so years, which would still be a bargain, assuming I can do it for around $2000.

The clicking from the dash is a dodgy stepping motor for the climate control, don't worry it still works and is ok.

The antenna should stay up when the boot is popped and some cars lower the antenna so the spoiler dosen't bend it.

Dont worry about the splash guard or indicator causing problems the indicator is sealed.

The parking assist antenna is probably dodge so don't worry, the switch you refer to is for the operation of your Automatic transmission. Power selects gears faster and snow makes the car take off in 2nd gear to reduce wheelspin in slippery conditions.

Skylines do come out with a 5 speed auto, never seen one in person but know it to be a fact. the best way to find out would be to see the transmission code stamped on the platr in the engine bay and check that against other Skylines or a Nissan Dealer may have info regarding this? enjoy your ride!

The antenna should stay up when the boot is popped and some cars lower the antenna so the spoiler dosen't bend it.

The parking assist antenna is probably dodge so don't worry, the switch you refer to is for the operation of your Automatic transmission. Power selects gears faster and snow makes the car take off in 2nd gear to reduce wheelspin in slippery conditions.

Skylines do come out with a 5 speed auto, never seen one in person but know it to be a fact. the best way to find out would be to see the transmission code stamped on the platr in the engine bay and check that against other Skylines or a Nissan Dealer may have info regarding this? enjoy your ride!

Thanks for the reply. When I open the boot with the antenna up, the spoiler goes past the antenna without damage, but if I try to close it, the antenna gets caught by the spoiler. I was just wondering if something was broken, preventing the antenna from retracting like this.

I know about the power and snow switch, I was referring to the switch next to that, it kind of looks like an antenna.

I just looked up the code for the transmission, the page I was looking at before had a different code, but I found another page, and yes I have a 5 speed auto, RE5R01A. :)

holy crap batman!!  

295,000km  

$4000 !!

Thats not cheap for nz. I wouldn't have payed more than $3000 for that car by the sounds of its condition. There are quite a few gts-t's for sale over here with not many less kms (200,000 is not uncomon) that go for around $4500 - $5000.

1992 Nissan skyline gts-t

Gunmetal Grey 2door Manual

3" Mandrill bent s/s exuast

17" Gt-t alloys

Heavy-duty kevlar/ceramic clutch with GTR pressure plate

King Springs, KYB shocks

Front mount intercooler with s/s piping

Lowered 25mm

Blitz Turbo timer/Digital Boost gauge with peak hold

Autometer 30psi Boost guage

Adjustable boost runing 13psi

171 rwkw

14.1 1/4 mile

Nizmo steering wheel

140,000km

This is my car and in the nz market selling it privatly I would be doing well to get more than 8- $9000 for it.

Thats not cheap for nz. I wouldn't have payed more than $3000 for that car by the sounds of its condition. There are quite a few gts-t's for sale over here with not many less kms (200,000 is not uncomon) that go for around $4500 - $5000.

I didn't want a turbo, since it would have had the hell wrung out of it it's whole life, also insurance probably wouldn't have been impressed if I got one.

I also wouldn't have gotten a car with over 180,000k, unless I could get a warranty with it, which means I could only get it from a car yard and that was the only one for that price range.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...