Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whereas in sydney I've noticed these chips cost around $2k-$2.5k...some idiot quoted $4k... but all these prices in sydney includes the cost of labour...

At that price, they're talking about fully programmable aftermarket computers. Possibly with tuning, at some of those prices. Which means some tuner will sit there and custom-make an engine tune that maximises the gains for your particular car.

This unit is none of those things. It connects to one of the sensors the engine computer uses (typically the sensor that tells the engine computer how much air is going into the engine so it knows how much fuel to inject), and modifies its signal by a fixed amount. It's a one-size-fits-all product, and you have no idea what was done to the car they tested it on.

Thanks to manufacturing tolerances every engine is slightly different. Which means they all put down slightly different power when leaving the factory. Good manufacturers will keep this variance to a minimum, but its luck if you get 2 different engines that perform in exactly the same way. Which means the factory, one-size-fits-all, tune on every ECU they make has to allow for these tolerances so they don't blow up too many engines. Only a niche manufacturer is going to be able to custom tune every engine that leaves their factory, since its way too cost and time consuming to do it on a volume seller.

It's in those tolerances that an aftermarket computer can find some gains on a stock car (along with a bit of gain from tuning the car outside of its legal emissions requirements). These one-size-fits-all tunes have no idea what your specific engine's tolerances are, so they either tune just as conservatively which means you don't get the maximum gain possible, or if they push it close to the limits you run the risk of tuning outside the tolerances of your particular engine and you eventually break something.

The gains they've quoted are straight-out bullshit. Notice that the gains are "up to x"? A gain of 1hp is still a gain of "up to 35hp" so they're not technically lying, but if you think you're going to see those gains you're dreaming. And even when I did my intake and exhaust and then had my engine custom-tuned with a programmable computer, I don't think I saw those kinds of gains. And that was tuning both the air/fuel mixture and the ignition timing, not just the former.

Steer well clear of these things.

I can get them,:thumbsup: are you Sydney based?

I'm going to gauge interest again shortly in the V Series forum for a Group Buy. If I can get more than 5 interested parties the prices are VERY good.

Also, Plenum spacers, filters etc, are well within the scope of a patient backyarder with some decent hand tools.:thumbsup:

Cheers, Dale.

Hi Dale,

I will be interested in a sway bar group buy depending on the type of Sway's that will be bought.

do you have access to particular brands? i.e Hotchkis sways?

i have read alot of good things about the Hotchkis sways, Stillen i have read have started to break in some cases.

Also something to consider would be aftermarket End links as i have also read that the stock ones tend to wear/break with aftermarket sways, Powergrid Endlinks have been given the best write up and i have bought a set of fronts from the US ($150usd rough per set, and 1 set is required for front and another for the rear) still waiting for them to arrive but purchasing in anticipation of getting revised sway's

P.s im also sydney based.

At that price, they're talking about fully programmable aftermarket computers. Possibly with tuning, at some of those prices. Which means some tuner will sit there and custom-make an engine tune that maximises the gains for your particular car.

This unit is none of those things. It connects to one of the sensors the engine computer uses (typically the sensor that tells the engine computer how much air is going into the engine so it knows how much fuel to inject), and modifies its signal by a fixed amount. It's a one-size-fits-all product, and you have no idea what was done to the car they tested it on.

Thanks to manufacturing tolerances every engine is slightly different. Which means they all put down slightly different power when leaving the factory. Good manufacturers will keep this variance to a minimum, but its luck if you get 2 different engines that perform in exactly the same way. Which means the factory, one-size-fits-all, tune on every ECU they make has to allow for these tolerances so they don't blow up too many engines. Only a niche manufacturer is going to be able to custom tune every engine that leaves their factory, since its way too cost and time consuming to do it on a volume seller.

It's in those tolerances that an aftermarket computer can find some gains on a stock car (along with a bit of gain from tuning the car outside of its legal emissions requirements). These one-size-fits-all tunes have no idea what your specific engine's tolerances are, so they either tune just as conservatively which means you don't get the maximum gain possible, or if they push it close to the limits you run the risk of tuning outside the tolerances of your particular engine and you eventually break something.

The gains they've quoted are straight-out bullshit. Notice that the gains are "up to x"? A gain of 1hp is still a gain of "up to 35hp" so they're not technically lying, but if you think you're going to see those gains you're dreaming. And even when I did my intake and exhaust and then had my engine custom-tuned with a programmable computer, I don't think I saw those kinds of gains. And that was tuning both the air/fuel mixture and the ignition timing, not just the former.

Steer well clear of these things.

this was a very good read,

thanks a lot buddy :)

Hi Dale,

I will be interested in a sway bar group buy depending on the type of Sway's that will be bought.

do you have access to particular brands? i.e Hotchkis sways?

i have read alot of good things about the Hotchkis sways, Stillen i have read have started to break in some cases.

Also something to consider would be aftermarket End links as i have also read that the stock ones tend to wear/break with aftermarket sways, Powergrid Endlinks have been given the best write up and i have bought a set of fronts from the US ($150usd rough per set, and 1 set is required for front and another for the rear) still waiting for them to arrive but purchasing in anticipation of getting revised sway's

P.s im also sydney based.

PM sent.

Regarding the bar breakages, I would attribute this to the fact that most of the US made upgraded bars that I've seen appear to have the lateral locks (basically a clamp next to the "D"bush to stop the bars from sliding sideways) WELDED to the bar, also they seem to just use a flimsy flat washer. This will surely become a stress riser and lead to the eventual cracking/fracture of the bar.

The Whiteline bars use a Billet alloy clamp around the bar, which is a much more elegant, albeit more expensive way of doing things. Note; the lateral locks are included when you purchase from Whiteline.

Hope this helps.

Edited by Daleo

At that price, they're talking about fully programmable aftermarket computers. Possibly with tuning, at some of those prices. Which means some tuner will sit there and custom-make an engine tune that maximises the gains for your particular car.

This unit is none of those things. It connects to one of the sensors the engine computer uses (typically the sensor that tells the engine computer how much air is going into the engine so it knows how much fuel to inject), and modifies its signal by a fixed amount. It's a one-size-fits-all product, and you have no idea what was done to the car they tested it on.

Thanks to manufacturing tolerances every engine is slightly different. Which means they all put down slightly different power when leaving the factory. Good manufacturers will keep this variance to a minimum, but its luck if you get 2 different engines that perform in exactly the same way. Which means the factory, one-size-fits-all, tune on every ECU they make has to allow for these tolerances so they don't blow up too many engines. Only a niche manufacturer is going to be able to custom tune every engine that leaves their factory, since its way too cost and time consuming to do it on a volume seller.

It's in those tolerances that an aftermarket computer can find some gains on a stock car (along with a bit of gain from tuning the car outside of its legal emissions requirements). These one-size-fits-all tunes have no idea what your specific engine's tolerances are, so they either tune just as conservatively which means you don't get the maximum gain possible, or if they push it close to the limits you run the risk of tuning outside the tolerances of your particular engine and you eventually break something.

The gains they've quoted are straight-out bullshit. Notice that the gains are "up to x"? A gain of 1hp is still a gain of "up to 35hp" so they're not technically lying, but if you think you're going to see those gains you're dreaming. And even when I did my intake and exhaust and then had my engine custom-tuned with a programmable computer, I don't think I saw those kinds of gains. And that was tuning both the air/fuel mixture and the ignition timing, not just the former.

Steer well clear of these things.

Nice post, thanks for that :).

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...