Jump to content
SAU Community

Cracked Coilpacks


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I am having some problems with my gtr motor and would love some help. To begin with the engine was yanked, pistons changed, rod bolts changed to arp, headgasket was the cometic superstreet hg. My engine management is power fc (got a used one from my engine builder). Head was ported and polished, tomei procams installed with tomei solid lifters, valve springs and retainers etc.. I have been having very low compression since the build, pretty much 90-95 psi across the board. Now here lies some of the other problems, the car has been mildly tuned and when I get on the car the idle becomes really rough and it takes a little while for it to clear up. I started to get compression readings of 0, 30, 90 and now 50 psi on number 4 cylinder. The other cylinders hold at 90 psi. I get no smoke so it leads me to think that the problem is in the head. I am going to be taking the motor out in a couple days to see what's going on but my new problem is now this, yesterday while driving the car it started to give me the "subaru sound" when I stopped I noticed that number 5 was not firing, I have injector pulse and the plug is wet. I also noticed the coilpack had a huge crack on it. I tried to tape it up and the replaced it with the coilpack from number 4. I also changed the plug. I cruised home and when I got home, decided to check the coilpack again, where I saw that the replaced coilpack also cracked! So now I have TWO cracked coilpacks. I have use the gtr manual to check the wiring and also the ignition relay, I ran out of time but I will be checking the power transistor when I get home. Do you think that the power fc is the problem and has anyone else had this problem? The engine is from a 96 gtr and is in a 97 240sx. Going to post a picture.

post-26402-0-77406500-1304200065_thumb.jpg

Edited by steeldawg_69
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check that the coilpack cradle is sitting correctly. Also what spark plug are u using? Maybe the spark plug is too long or not completely down in the spark plug well/thread. Check this very carefully.

Does the spark plug screw all the way down?

Check the thread

As for the compression pour some oil down the bad cylinder and see if the compression test result is higher.

If not then maybe the valves arent lapped in correcty or maybe the valve is beeing held open by incorrectly fitted shims

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot to mention that I had poured a capfull of oil in the faulty cylinder and there was no change in compression. The plugs I am using is the NGK iridium BKR8EIX. I used to use the 7 series and changed them for the colder plugs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok, let us know if there is an issue with the spark plug height,

also before you pull the head off check the cam lobe to shim clearance with a feeler gauge set and see if the is insufficient clearance or if its ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok will definately do that. I checked to see if there was anything hindering the plug from going in. It went in without hassle. I just cant figure out what would make two coilpacks pop like that within 15 mins of each other. I'm going to recheck all my grounds. I almost forgot, the builder could not find my shims and he had the machine shop make some, now I'm starting to think......oh boy!

Edited by steeldawg_69
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might be a dud tester.

Try another compression tester gauge.

Also make sure the throttle is completely open when cranking. Don't stop cranking until the gauge stops moving

Link to comment
Share on other sites

'Low' compression isn't a problem so much as constant compression, as mentioned in other threads and in here due to dodgy testers or badly done.

The problem is, as you have, when one or more are vastly different than the rest.

Good luck with the fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you speak to engine builder about the compression? Is it actually a problem?

You need to address the coilpack issue completely first, and only once that's done work out if you have a real problem. If it were me, i'd put it back on the dyno once the coilpack issue is fixed and see if it makes the right power. If not, ask the engine builder why you're getting those compression test results.

Big cams can effect compression results, so maybe get a leak down to back it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update............ I tested the power transistor today and it turns out number five resistance reading was off (dead short). I ordered one so now I wait. Thanks to all that answered my post, I'll keep you guys posted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't got that far, my main worry was the connection to the actual calipers themselves. I'm just using new (ish) stock brake lines in the stock setup. I've just had a stud welded to the knuckle that is a little lower than the original stud (so my knuckles have two studs each side) to not have it be stretched so far in previous BBK setups, so the "block" (in the second picture) mounts a little lower for me and I hope I don't need to change anything. I may have even changed the connection to the calipers in the past and have since forgotten I did that. I may not have. Guess how I'm gonna find out. Source: hopium
    • It's more so I'm using the 1x piece line from HEL that goes from the body to the caliper. There's no middle block/mount like the HFM ones or the GKtech ones. There are certain angles/suspension compression where the line actually slightly contacts the ARB. Below of how mine sit (not my photo): How I want it:  
    • Oh I have mine all sitting in boxes ready to go, two sets of rotors, four sets of pads and caliper rebuild kits. They send a survey asking me if I had installed them months ago :p Grinder not necessary to fit the fronts, and not *really* for the rears. They have some good simple videos on how-to. I don't understand brake lines but from what I understand... somehow... OEM lines work, even though people say 350Z and 370Z use different banjo bolts, so it's possible 350'z had some different setup that Nissan changed to the 370Z/R33/R34 system? ....though are a little short, but past-me made a new bolt hole to bolt them to to reach my current fronts so I should be okay... maybe. In any case HFM don't sell any *different* line kits for R33/R34 front brakes than they do for the 370Z kits. So in my mind they must be compatible or they would have different products made to suit the different calipers. Please test and confirm for me kthx.
    • @Kinkstaah HFM will have a spicy BF sale in November, might be a good time to load up on the adaptors, new lines, etc. Then may the best grinder win lol.
    • I actually think the S15 is 80/20. I know I said 70/30 before but perhaps that is the GTT/GTST one. I wanna say it's the BM50 or BM44. I have one for sale if you want it GTSBoy, try your luck. For some reason the R34 GTT one is actually unlabelled, so it's a BM??????
×
×
  • Create New...