Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a n00bie question. I've currently got a JLw04 sub with a Fusion 1000w amp. I want to get rid of my sub to free up the boot.

Can I get decent bass from rear speakers instead. I am not after loudness anywhere near what the sub can do. I'm just after abit of crisp bass to complement my front speakers.

If I can do this will I still need an amp? Any suggestions on speaker models and amps?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36272-bass-from-rear-speakers/
Share on other sites

i guess a good set of rears speakers will provide some bass, no where near the bass from a sub/amp combo of course. dont get 6x9's. speak to your local car audio shop, if your in melb check out gayrs car radio in preston, good advice they give. maybe ask fhrx (he's on here) he works at an audio shop in nsw (maybe sydney??). ive got 6" alpine coax speakers in my parcel shelf and they sound great, i also have subs however (2 x 12") but if i turn off the subs i still get some good sounding bass

Hey guys, while you cannot achieve bass equal to a full powered sub you can get a fair amount of bass in the car using a few tricks. You can use a high powered set of quality splits at the front and using HEAPS of sound deadening, you can cross the speakers quite low (around 30-50hz). But you'll need serious power to run them this low.

Another option is to run free air subs in the rear shelf. Using specially made spacer plates you can put two infinate baffle 8" where the factory rears usually reside. :cheers:

P.S: I do own Fhrx Studio's which is an Audio shop in Sydney. :D

Hey guys, while you cannot achieve bass equal to a full powered sub you can get a fair amount of bass in the car using a few tricks. You can use a high powered set of quality splits at the front and using HEAPS of sound deadening, you can cross the speakers quite low (around 30-50hz). But you'll need serious power to run them this low.

Another option is to run free air subs in the rear shelf. Using specially made spacer plates you can put two infinate baffle 8" where the factory rears usually reside. :cheers:

P.S: I do own Fhrx Studio's which is an Audio shop in Sydney. :D

or you can make a small sub-enclosure and fit it next to the battery.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...