Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks mate, looks like an early visit to the HPC is warranted. This happened after I took the car to Cambelltown HPC, never again!!!

No it shouldnt be. . . . . check for loose bolts etc on the exhaust manifold, dump pipe, rear turbo housing etc.

It's surprising the vehicle cabin leaks so much that any gas in your engine bay is getting in at all even if the exhaust was leaking. Modern cars have cabin sealing tighter than a frogs backside. This might be clutching at straws but has anyone ever changed a pollen filter and noticed if incorrectly fitting the new one could have comprimised the ventilation system sealing? Other than that or a disconnected PCV valve I'm also at a loss as to what the NHPC may have done during a routine service to cause this problem.

Edited by fungoolie

1) Once you smell the exhaust gas, can you stop the car > quickly open the boot > is the smell more prominent there?

2) Can you dust the rear boot rubber moulding with talcum powder > close the boot > open the boot > see if there is any powder remaining that indicates a poor seal?

Just looking at a simple possibility.

Thanks mate, I'll give it a try, however my next service is due, it's time to get the HPC to take a look of the car, I think it's running a bit rich with heavy carbon residue buildup in the exhaust tip.

1) Once you smell the exhaust gas, can you stop the car > quickly open the boot > is the smell more prominent there?

2) Can you dust the rear boot rubber moulding with talcum powder > close the boot > open the boot > see if there is any powder remaining that indicates a poor seal?

Just looking at a simple possibility.

Thanks mate, I'll give it a try, however my next service is due, it's time to get the HPC to take a look of the car, I think it's running a bit rich with heavy carbon residue buildup in the exhaust tip.

Dont read too much into that. Unleaded cars running at stoichiometry or leaner even after a long country trip still show black exhaust tips. Gone are the days of nice grey or powder white exhaust tips after an open road run.... Rich or not, you shouldn't be smelling it inside the car. My solution? Give it to the NHPC and say fix it! After all, thats what the warranty's for. So you dont have to worry about such things...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...