Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i bought K-sport Kontrol pro coilovers for a mate of an ebay store in the USA. cost AUD$1180 inc shipping to my house,

for example http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KSPORT-COILOVERS-SPRINGS-99-02-00-01-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R34-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5629bdd74bQQitemZ370067494731QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo

if you scroll down it says $210 shipping to australia which equals $1054 total! and thats for 1 set.

has he contacted k-sport australia or a distributer? he should haggle them down more haha

i bought K-sport Kontrol pro coilovers for a mate of an ebay store in the USA. cost AUD$1180 inc shipping to my house,

has he contacted k-sport australia or a distributer? he should haggle them down more haha

I hear this all the time in my line of work and it sh_ts me to no end...

The issue with importing your own parts like this is that if you have any problems with warranty or a manufacturing defect you'll have trouble getting anything from the ebay person you bought them from and I highly doubt that without a receipt from an Australian distributor that anyone local will help you out (at least without charging you for it).

If you buy from a local distributor you can be confident that your parts are manufacturer backed (although it always pays to ask anyway) and if you have any problems, they can help you out... You're also supporting an Australian business and keeping the money here in Australia.

People fail to take all this into account when buying online from overseas and they don't realise that parallel import products can often be more trouble for the consumer, businesses and the Australian economy than they are worth.

:rant:

I hear this all the time in my line of work and it sh_ts me to no end...

The issue with importing your own parts like this is that if you have any problems with warranty or a manufacturing defect you'll have trouble getting anything from the ebay person you bought them from and I highly doubt that without a receipt from an Australian distributor that anyone local will help you out (at least without charging you for it).

If you buy from a local distributor you can be confident that your parts are manufacturer backed (although it always pays to ask anyway) and if you have any problems, they can help you out... You're also supporting an Australian business and keeping the money here in Australia.

People fail to take all this into account when buying online from overseas and they don't realise that parallel import products can often be more trouble for the consumer, businesses and the Australian economy than they are worth.

:rant:

My issue with it is, that if 1 retail customer can buy a product for 2-300 bucks less including shipping from overseas that what the local people are selling it for, than I feel I'm getting ripped off.

I'm sure that if I were a business owner and wanted to order 10 sets of coilovers you could get it much cheaper again, and hen sell locally for maybe a few bucks more than ebay US, but not 300 bucks more.

I'm all for supporting local business, but only when the price is resonable.

+1

also with the australian dollar the way it is against the US dollar that means that given K sport are an american brand the australian distributor should be cheaper, especially with a bulk buy. most group buys ive seen the parts are cheaper then ebay or any other online auction so thats why i said haggle them down.

just like tempe tyres sydney with their parallel importing of kumho tyres, they sell them cheap as chips, cheaper to the customer fitted than a tyre shop can buy them from the distributor. why pay premium price for the same product when its a non-australian imported product in the first place?

most the people selling them on ebay are genuine K-sport distributors so the invoice is valid for the 18month limited warranty they offer

You ultimately and usually get what you pay for here and O.S.

On the odd occasion when you do get ripped off at least if you bought in Australia you have recourse or can go bash somebody!

Back on topic - shocks n springs for BC, K-sport, etc coilovers are all around 1200-1300 in Australia. Sorry but saving a $100 bucks wouldn't make me buy from O.S.

Serious about handling then save/spend $3500 and do it all and properly.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...