Jump to content
SAU Community

My 78' Skyline C210

L24_skyline
 Share

Recommended Posts

Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey dude i have a good condition steering wheel here if you're interested, it has the centre bit as well

thanks dude let us know the price.

could you also see if there are any of the sun visor clips, that go on the ceiling?

Edited by Socrates
L24_skyline Contributor

L24_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yer I'm gunna put a drift wheel on it, only cause I like the off center feel and they are perfectly round... Well I rang him today and he doesn't doesn't have any center cOnsole lids but he tolde to ring a bloke in Windsor apprently he has some L28 motors and some other stuff, so I'll see how I go there... Also do u have a spare boss kit for the c210?

Silent Shadow Rising Star

Silent Shadow

Posted
Posted

you can get a boss kit from repco/ supercheap. you just have to wait like 2 weeks.

be careful though. the metal ring for the horn on the base of mine came off and the horn went nuts. i had to pull over and unplug the horns (loud). also chewed out the mechanism that centers the indicators when straightening the wheel and started to smoke lol. so maybe like remove it and re-glue before installing or just remove.

L24_skyline Contributor

L24_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

you can get a boss kit from repco/ supercheap. you just have to wait like 2 weeks.

be careful though. the metal ring for the horn on the base of mine came off and the horn went nuts. i had to pull over and unplug the horns (loud). also chewed out the mechanism that centers the indicators when straightening the wheel and started to smoke lol. so maybe like remove it and re-glue before installing or just remove.

Alrighty man cheers for the heads up... ill see how i go, ill just go down and order a boss kit tomorrow.

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

Having been down this path myself: single carby to 260Z carbs, to SU canbs to triple webers, 3 different gearboxs, 3 engines, 3 sets of suspension, 6 years of dicking about etc, I'd give you this advice: choose a plan, and stick to it.

Your SU's are going to bolt straight up to what you have and the car will go about twice as fast, except for the fact that they are likely to need a rebuild (think about a grand).

There is no manifold for 2 sidedraft webers - they won't fit on your twin SU manifold, so unless your budget stetches to 3 webers, manifold, linkages, filters and tuning (think about $2,000 - 3,000 min, and then more for a retune if you change the engine later).

Extractors and exhaust, great idea.

5 speed, cool!

Lightened flywheel, sure. Think about a fresh heavy duty clutch too.

Aftermarket drift steering wheel... err... gross, but whatever turns you on.

8 inch Watanabes... no chance in hell, unless you are planning on cutting the guards up and finding and over-guard flare kit out of Japan. Budget, what... $2,000 if you go for decent looking copies.

Adjustable suspension... again, entry-level King springs and shocks are going to start at a grand. If you are just crusing why do they need to be adjustable?

Basically, budget about $10,000 to $15,000 for the work you're describing, or stick on the SU's, exhaust and 5 speed and lower springs for about a 7th of that, or buy a smashed Datsun 280zx and bolt up the complete injected L28 etc and go about as fast as you would with the SU's, again for a fraction of the cost. You'll probably want to put aside more money for bushes, bearings and brakes.

Good luck, it's a lovely car.

Hey guys just a few pics of my c210 atm as im about to start puttin it together this is how it sits atm and ill update this topic as i go...

wat i have to go in:

Twin Su carbs

5-Speed transmission

2in exhaust

Aftermarket Steering Wheel

Lightend Flywheel

What i have on the to buy list:

Twin webbers

Ajustable suspension

EFI conversion

Extractors

Wantanabes RS8 16x7, 16x8

L24_skyline Contributor

L24_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Most of what I want to do is over time but ur pretty much on the money, also alot of what I'd like to do won't happen but a guy can aim for the sky lol I want adjustable suspension for height and stiffness... It will be along time before I'm done with this car and will never sell it as it was my granddads and he bought it brand new. thanks for the advice I appreciate it!

hcg210 Collaborator

hcg210

Posted
Posted

Having been down this path myself: single carby to 260Z carbs, to SU canbs to triple webers, 3 different gearboxs, 3 engines, 3 sets of suspension, 6 years of dicking about etc, I'd give you this advice: choose a plan, and stick to it.

Your SU's are going to bolt straight up to what you have and the car will go about twice as fast, except for the fact that they are likely to need a rebuild (think about a grand).

There is no manifold for 2 sidedraft webers - they won't fit on your twin SU manifold, so unless your budget stetches to 3 webers, manifold, linkages, filters and tuning (think about $2,000 - 3,000 min, and then more for a retune if you change the engine later).

Extractors and exhaust, great idea.

5 speed, cool!

Lightened flywheel, sure. Think about a fresh heavy duty clutch too.

Aftermarket drift steering wheel... err... gross, but whatever turns you on.

8 inch Watanabes... no chance in hell, unless you are planning on cutting the guards up and finding and over-guard flare kit out of Japan. Budget, what... $2,000 if you go for decent looking copies.

Adjustable suspension... again, entry-level King springs and shocks are going to start at a grand. If you are just crusing why do they need to be adjustable?

Well said Drew..

wait what about the paint and panel job???

:w00t:

Basically, budget about $10,000 to $15,000 for the work you're describing, or stick on the SU's, exhaust and 5 speed and lower springs for about a 7th of that, or buy a smashed Datsun 280zx and bolt up the complete injected L28 etc and go about as fast as you would with the SU's, again for a fraction of the cost. You'll probably want to put aside more money for bushes, bearings and brakes.

Good luck, it's a lovely car.

Gordie Collaborator

Gordie

Posted
Posted

If i were you id want to leave it stock as a rock, its too nice to change! (wish i did this to my first one) and buy another one that has already been modifed. should work out cheaper,

You'll be able to buy one with a few goodies already on it for a few grand and you will be able to keep this one as good as your grandad kept it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...