No Pedal After Abs Replacement

[MrStabby]

The brand new ABS itself is now clear of air, but the pedal is straight to the floor. I was assuming that there would only be very little air in the lines from the ABS to the brakes - after all the brake fluid is not going to defy gravity right? The pedal is not even spongy.

No obvious leaks so i guess i'll do the calipers, which AFAIK means i'll have push the air bubbles all the way from the ABS to the calipers first, so a crapload of pedal pumps.

So,

- is there something i'm missing, or is bleeding the calipers the only way forward?

- roughly how many pedal pumps per caliper to clear the line?

FWIW before the ABS work i put in a second hand master cylinder as it was leaking badly out the back. The replacement doesnt appear to be leaking at all.

[zebra]

Probably has an air lock in either the master or the abs unit.

may need to be pressure bled

[KiwiRS4T]

You need to bleed the whole system. Get a tin of Motul RBF600 and you will effectively be replacing your fluid which would be a good idea anyway.

[GTRsean]

Bleed calipers from furthest from abs to closest last, then bleed abs last.

[nobby]

don't mix brake fluids.

don't use synthetic if you have used mineral first they don't mix.

read this somewhwere and on back of fluid bottles.

[MrStabby]

I've just done the full bleed in correct order, ie

1. Left rear brake

2. Right rear brake

3. Left front brake

4. Right front brake

5. Front side ABS (nipple closer to the front of the car)

6. Rear side ABS (nipple closer to firewall)

And its not bad. Not perfect so i'll run through the whole procedure once again. Felt good to be back in the pilot seat after 3 weeks

Kiwi - I'm not using RBF600 any more. I'm trying the Nulon stuff since its a third the price, available anywhere, and not too far off the temperature rating (280 vs 310 IIRC). Need to do a track day to see how well it holds up tho.