Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well it might cause quite a few of you a lot of pain to know that I am considering moving on from my R32... I know, I know I'd be an idiot to sell it and all that, but this is only an Expression Of Interest because I have been thinking about this for at least a year now and my mind still isnt made up, so I need your opinions.

I am thinking of parting with my 1992 R32 GTS-T for somewhere around $13,000 (which I think is very reasonable).

Here is a "short" list of specs:

1992 R32 GTS-T M-Spec

Spark Silver metallic with custom vinyl graphics.

Engine:

- 1993 R33 S1 RB25DET conversion.

- Genuine Garret GT30/76R turbo with custom internal wastegate.

- Custom polished alloy intake piping, turbosmart triple ply silicone joiners.

- Z33 Air-flow meter + compact air pod (breathes plenty of air).

- JJR Adjustable exhaust cam gear.

- Custom front-mount intercooler 600x300x76mm with custom stainless piping, triple ply silicone joiners ad T-clamps.

- Turbosmart SS blow-off valve

- Genuine Splitfire coil packs + NGK spark plugs (gapped to 0.8mm).

- JJR oil catch can + breather.

- 45mm Alloy radiator with A'Pexi 3BAR cap and Davies Craig high temp hoses.

- Engine fan removed, Cooltemp 14" thermo fan installed with shroud and electronic fan controller (never gets above 90 degrees).

- Genuine TRUST Power Extreme II exhaust system (3" mandrel), TRUST front pipe and split dump pipe.

Electronics:

- A'Pexi PowerFC ECU.

- Turbosmart E-Boost street.

- Brant alarm (needs replacing).

Driveline:

- R33 GTS-T gearbox.

- TOMEI billet short shift kit.

- Exedy Hyper-single ceramic button clutch kit.

- Custom single piece tailshaft with Z33 uni-joints.

- Standard diff with 140W motosport oil for more lock (doesnt whine or clunk).

Brakes:

- Standard rotors, wheel bearings replaced under 20,000kms ago.

- Overhauled standard calipers with Bendix ultimate pads (I also have EBC Greens still in the box).

- Braided brake lines (ADR approved).

- Motul RBF600 brake fluid.

- Overhauled master cylinder.

Suspension & steering:

- TEIN Super-street adjustable coil-overs.

- Billet alloy adjustable caster rods.

- Genuine Nismo front strut brace.

- HICAS removed and locked (entire system removed), new rear rack ends and knuckles installed.

- Front steering rack overhauled, new boots, rack ends and tie rods.

Wheels & tyres:

- Volk Challenge 17x7 and 17x8 (don't know offset on these *very light-weight*.

- Federal 595RS tyres (about 50% tread) slightly over sized 225/45R17 and 255/40R17.

Interior:

- Stock standard seats, carpet etc.

- Isotta MegII genuine leather steering wheel.

- RAZO gear knob.

- Autometer boost guage in pod.

- PowerFC hand controller and E-Boost street unit mounted neatly on dash (no holes drilled).

Sound system:

- Alpine head unit (about 5 years old)

- FUSION 600W 4way amp powering FUSION speakers (very good sound but no fully sick sub-woofer).

Body:

- Genuine GTR V-Spec front bar (genuine Nissan).

- M-Spec side skirts and rear pods.

- Rear bar is slightly damaged from scraping on a car trailer but I plan to have it resprayed.

- Custom Nismo stripes.

- No accident history or dodgy repairs.

This car has been lovingly looked after, always garaged and serviced with Motul fluids every 5,000kms. I have done almost all of the work myself (so I know it's done right) any of the work that I have had done at workshops has been done by either Trojan Motorsport or ESP Racing.

Glenn at ESP tuned this car in this set up to 275rwkw (370rwhp) and over 500nm of torque at only 14.4psi but when not driven hard it is very comfortable and easy to drive on the street.

Pictures attached.

What I am asking is whether I should sell this car and upgrade (keeping the next car a secret at this stage) and is the price right?

NOTE: I will be putting a year's rego on it and can assist the purchaser in getting it passed over inspection.

Cheers,

Mick

post-17958-0-20553300-1305859424_thumb.jpg

post-17958-0-96105500-1305859441_thumb.jpg

post-17958-0-47178100-1305859852_thumb.jpg

post-17958-0-67465000-1305859876_thumb.jpg

post-17958-0-18934400-1305859890_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364939-bullet32-eoi/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey mate,

i can see that its had a bit of work , but it's still a 32.

maybe around $5000???

Thanks Jester,

I realise that R32's are going cheap these days but there's no way I can go that low.

Thanks for your feedback though :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364939-bullet32-eoi/#findComment-5822595
Share on other sites

Wow what a deuche!

Mick that's such a nice car, I was actually thinking about it just the other day, such a nice power curve strapped to a rock solid 32!

It must be a hard choice to let her go.

So good luck! And by that I mean bad luck, so you get to keep it :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364939-bullet32-eoi/#findComment-5822713
Share on other sites

Wow what a deuche!

Mick that's such a nice car, I was actually thinking about it just the other day, such a nice power curve strapped to a rock solid 32!

It must be a hard choice to let her go.

So good luck! And by that I mean bad luck, so you get to keep it :D

Thanks Pat,

I'm having serious trouble deciding what to do... I love it and want to keep it but something else has come up and I want it as well... Decisions, decisions.

Cheers mate :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364939-bullet32-eoi/#findComment-5822725
Share on other sites

Hey Mick, that looks like one kickass 32.

if i hadn't already bought my 34 a few months back i would probably try to convince you to sell to me...

I'd be all over it for $12k - $13k.

I think you should keep it :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364939-bullet32-eoi/#findComment-5822774
Share on other sites

Scam a poor old lady - you can have both!

Hah! - Good idea, now to find a gulible rich old lady :)

Hey Mick, that looks like one kickass 32.

if i hadn't already bought my 34 a few months back i would probably try to convince you to sell to me...

I'd be all over it for $12k - $13k.

I think you should keep it :D

Thanks man,

I would only sell to a proper enthusiast like yourself who would really appreciate it. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364939-bullet32-eoi/#findComment-5822787
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...