Jump to content
SAU Community

GTR Hydraulics

Scotsman
 Share

Recommended Posts

meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
Posted

Hi Chris,

what problems are you having with the 4wd system. PS: I dont have it here with me at the office, so I cant check for you but there a thread where you can download the GTR Service manual in a PDF 800pages about 22Mb... if you dont have an answer I check it for you when I get home tonight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-729629
Share on other sites
Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys. I have the R32 Service manual and it says 'Nissan Special Power Steering Fluid' which was a little unhelpful. I had removed the front drive shaft for a skidpan day and i'm no longer getting as much torque to the front wheels. So I was going to try bleeding the hydraulics and changing the transfer case oil aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-729663
Share on other sites
Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I also just had a GRID dash dancer installed by RevZone after this event, and it doesn't seem to be working in the 4WD mode (should be 50/50 split). The RWD works ok, but the 1st time I set it to 4WD the Active LSD and 4WD light came on in the dash and the car felt like the handbrake was full on. The car didn't want to move forward.

Now i'm getting the airbag and abs led comming on after about 15minutes of driving. But when I can put the car in neutral and roll along the led's go off.

So a few gremlins I need to sort out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-729667
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Yeah the special power steering fluid they refer to is Nissan Matic D. I had to go and buy some from Nissan when my car was apart, and the mechanic didnt put in enough fluid when putting it all back together.

Meshmesh, not yet. Ive got the redline lightweight shockproof for the gearbox and transfer case, and redline 75w90 for the diffs sitting right next to me as I type this :) Will let you know how it goes if youre interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-729690
Share on other sites
Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So two litres is enough for gearbox and transfer case?

and I assume a litre each for the front and rear diffs?

The web site says MT90 for gearbox and trasfer case which is a 75W90, then says the diffs use a 75W90. There are 2 types of 75W90, the GL5+ and the GL4 (MT90) which one is correct?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-730113
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

You need two 3.785 litre bottles (1 US gallon) to do gearbox and transfer case. MT90 is reccomended for these then in brackets it has redline lightweight shockproof. Ive only heard good things about the shockproof, so went the shockproof. The 75W90 they sent me for the diffs is API GL5/GL6.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-730130
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

One 3.7 litre bottle should do both diffs. As told to me this is what the parts take

Gearbox -- 4.1 L

Transfer case -- 1.8 L

Rear diff -- 1.5 L

Front diff -- 1.0 L

I should be getting all those changed in the next week, if you havnt bought some by then Ill tell you how it goes :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-730179
Share on other sites
Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I rang the VIC rep from redline and had a chat. He says the price on the net is a little bit high for retail price and he told me to give Oil World in cheltenham a call as these are the closest stockist to myself. Will let you know how much of a saving I make. Might be worthing ringing around in the future. depending on your local area

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-730250
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...