Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why the hell would I buy a Lexus? 270,000km owned by Qoc Nguoc Phan Tran who services it at a backyard Gull servo mechanic

Signature worthy. Epic!

I think the electronic shifting is awesome, I just want a manual so I can drop the clutch and have a finer control over gears.

Also, I think majority of Skylines in Australia that are sold on are thrashed and f**ked, or just not worth the asking price. Why when you can buy something in much better condition in Japan, import it and comply it and still have less KMs and pay less.

domokun.gif

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Andrew - am saving up to import again, I have not purchased the car yet obviously, but yes... In about a year or so time I will have a crown majesta..

And haha, eps... Why do you have that name that's gonna get so confusing haha

But it's true though. The only people that buy Lexus are Chinese or rich Vietnamese. And Jewish people,

And they seem to REALLY drive them. A LOT.

That's not racism. It's just fact. Oh and Indonesians love the third gen GS and the RX too. Haha

Signature worthy. Epic!

I think the electronic shifting is awesome, I just want a manual so I can drop the clutch and have a finer control over gears.

Also, I think majority of Skylines in Australia that are sold on are thrashed and f**ked, or just not worth the asking price. Why when you can buy something in much better condition in Japan, import it and comply it and still have less KMs and pay less.

domokun.gif

^^^ this. . . i have a auction sheet (with pics) in front of me and i doubt that i will be buying a sedan in aus, not when there are cheap /low K examples waiting to be snapped up in japan

^^^ this. . . i have a auction sheet (with pics) in front of me and i doubt that i will be buying a sedan in aus, not when there are cheap /low K examples waiting to be snapped up in japan

Most Japanese cars are in good condition and well worth the little extra wait :)

Most Japanese cars are in good condition and well worth the little extra wait :)

Definatly worth the wait , ive been in contact with Kristian from IRON CHEF , so far so good, he has sent me some more auction sheets and there are PLENTY of good condition sedan worth waiting for, nearly all autos ( but i dont mind that as i believe the fluid filled auto trans would help dampen engine harmonics) and only a few manuals, most grade 3.5 and up

Put it this way, in the import market... A 10 grand total budget will likely yield you quite a good black coloured ER34 with a lot of fruit on board like wheels etc....

And more than likely depending on the exchange rate at the time, will PRObably get you change back from the transaction ...

But either way... Importing an ER34 into WA is feasible because the market here is so inflated for them... So it actually makes sense. Personally I'd get a Toyota because I think they're built much better.. :)

My other piece of advice? Stay away from WA compliance shops. I hear good things about a particular shop that's on here that DOES lurk these forums and that shop IS good however stay the hell away from that yellow shop with the kangaroo in overalls on the logo.

That guy is a prick. A grey haired... Greedy .. Lieing... Prick.

which is the good shop you speak of?

GT -> Basic 2L

GT25 -> Same as GT, but with 2.5L engine.

GT-Four -> Same as GT25, but with AWD

GT-x -> Same as a GT25. Equivalent to a premium model equipment wise, ie. factory privacy glass, double din "premium sound", xenon headlights, front strut brace, optional LSD, optional GTt wheels.

GTt -> turbo model of a GT25, with big brakes, HICAS, LSD

GTt-x -> turbo model of a GT-x, with big brakes, HICAS, LSD

GTv -> Same as GT25, but with big brakes, HICAS, LSD

Thanks Mark, thats the sort of info im after :thumbsup: these sedans are just as well equiped as the coupes . .just with two extra doors

Prices seem very unpredictable of late. We've watched cars go for a lot more than they should. Last week I was bidding on a 3.5C, auto 4 door GT-V 50,000km that went for Y650,000 - so about 15.5k AUS landed and complied.

The week prior a 4.5B, TV2 4 door manual GT-T 65,000km went for Y1.9Million. That is silly money. That is 34 GTR Non-Vspec type of coin.

It is hard to pick a great condition cheap car at the auctions currently. I have found cars locally to be very well presented, with low km's and very cheap. I'm considering looking locally for my 34 4door instead of at the auctions for this very reason. Why pay 16k L&C when I can pick a comparable car up loacally for 4-5k less?

Prices seem very unpredictable of late. We've watched cars go for a lot more than they should. Last week I was bidding on a 3.5C, auto 4 door GT-V 50,000km that went for Y650,000 - so about 15.5k AUS landed and complied.

The week prior a 4.5B, TV2 4 door manual GT-T 65,000km went for Y1.9Million. That is silly money. That is 34 GTR Non-Vspec type of coin.

It is hard to pick a great condition cheap car at the auctions currently. I have found cars locally to be very well presented, with low km's and very cheap. I'm considering looking locally for my 34 4door instead of at the auctions for this very reason. Why pay 16k L&C when I can pick a comparable car up loacally for 4-5k less?

Ive found the opposite so far, ive gone thru 200 pages of cars for sale on SAU (some with mods) and a lot of auction sheets and after comparison i reckon i will come out on top by importing a skyline

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...