Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well folks, I am running an r33 gtst with full exhaust system, front mount, induction filter.

My question is, on full boost my standard boost gauge goes to just below the 7 at the top of the gauge? Just about 2mm off the 7?

Is this ok and safe?

Not one for planting the loud pedal much but wanna know its safe to do so!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365714-how-much-boost/
Share on other sites

If you are still running standard boost then it is fine. 7 psi is standard for an r33 for but with an exhaust and front mount it's likely to creep up to 8 or 9 which is still very safe. Get yourself an aftermarket boost gauge if you really want to know what it's running at.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365714-how-much-boost/#findComment-5835352
Share on other sites

The above is incorrect.

the gauge is in mmHg. 7 is around the 14psi mark, this is not safe for the turbo, and will no doubt be hurting power by sending the ECU into 'R&R' mode.

Please use the search for further info, this is quite a common topic. Also ensure you read the FI Guide sticky thread, it contains great links for those starting out.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365714-how-much-boost/#findComment-5835384
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...